Contents
Northern Thailand - (Weeks 1 and 2)
- The Only Way Is Up
- A Playground Joke To Reality
- The Bangkok Experience
- The Ancient Capital of Thailand – Ayutthaya
- Wild Elephants and Cheeky Monkeys - Khoa Yai National Park and Lopburi
- A Traveller’s Playground – Chiang Mai
Elephant Jungle Sanctuary
- From Childhood to Adulthood
- An Elephant Never Forgets
- Bathing, Brushing and Belly-rubs
Laos (Week 3)
- Where Beer Is Cheaper Than Water
- The Liverpool Supporters of Laos
The Gibbon Experience
- Monkeying around
- The Treehouse of Tranquillity
- Gibbon La Vida Loca
Luang Prabang
- Slow and Steady Wins the Race
- Hungry Bears and Enchanting Waterfalls
- The Living Land Company - Rice Rice Baby
Cambodia (Week 4)
- “Hey my friend, you want Tuk Tuk?”
The Temples of Angkor
- Fatigue Is Temporary, But Memories Last Forever
- Tuk Tuk Mao and the Tomb Raider Temple
- Wat An Experience
Phnom Penh
- A Capital City In Remission
- Disrespectful Tourism
- A Lesson To Be Learned
Southern Thailand (Weeks 5 and 6)
- Relaxation Retreat
- A Happy Ending in Koh Lipe
A Travellers Summary
- It's Like Learning A Foreign Language
- Next Stop, South America
The Only Way Is Up
The beginning of the end of our travels. Travelling has been unimaginably incredible so far, and we knew that there were plenty more experiences to come before heading home for Christmas. Only if our funds would take us as far as Christmas that is ...
Unfortunately, a certain medical bill shot us in the foot in Australia, and it looked like we'd be eating our shoelaces for the foreseeable future. Fortunately, though, we were going to somewhere as cheap as South East Asia so there was no need for any last-minute changes. We were on course for the insanity of Bangkok, the Elephants of Chiang Mai, the Temples of Angkor and a serene island hopping experience to round off our travels.
What were we waiting for? Hiking boots re-laced … it was time to explore Thailand.
Northern Thailand (Weeks 1 and 2)
The Only Way Is Up
A Playground Joke To Reality
A Playground Joke To Reality
I remember many years ago in primary school, there was a running joke which I still find funny to this day. It was a simple question … "What is the capital of Thailand?". The question would always be met with a confused look, a shrug of the shoulders and then before you could do anything else, it was quickly answered with a kick between the legs. BANGKOK!
As cliché as it is, life was so simple back then. Days spent trading Pokemon cards, playing British bulldog and accidentally losing at girl-kiss-boy tag. The only hardship was force-feeding a few bites of fruit in your packed lunchbox to continue the daily rewards of a Penguin Bar and Hoola Hoops. Back then, the borders of my world would barely exceed the kicking distance of a fly-away football, never mind be somewhere so far away and exotic as Thailand.
It's only as I started growing up and being fortunate enough to holiday in so many diverse places, did my sense of adventure grow and horizons broaden. It wasn't long before "BANGKOK!" Thailand went from the best joke I've heard to one of the most surreal places I could hope to visit.
Our plan was like a house of cards on a crooked table; 6 weeks in South East Asia, travelling 3 countries under strict border control. Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and back to Thailand. There and Back Again, a Hobbit's tale by James Gifford.
The Bangkok Experience
What better way to kick off our backpacking adventure by booking a 5-star hotel?? Okay, it's fair to say that this was booked as more as a reward for enduring hostels and campervans for 3 months. Also, our excuse was that we were still traumatised from our Namaka stay in Fiji and that we needed to balance things out a little. As much as we enjoyed all of these experiences (even Namaka in managing to escape in one piece), we were long overdue a hotel and wanted to take advantage of somewhere as cheap as Thailand. GBP 15.50 for two of us for two nights! Yes please!
If it wasn't for this hotel, then I wouldn't have this Facebook profile picture. So good, that it wasn't changed for over 3 years…
Despite exploring Harry Potter world and being blessed with the best haircut in my life, Bangkok was UTTER MAYHEM. A concrete jungle paralysed by endless traffic jams. Offers for Tuk Tuk taxis on every street corner, as well as other types of rides if you know what I mean.
I thought I would be able to tell the difference between a man and a woman. Not when it comes to the infamous and chaotic Khoa Sin Road. It was a little game I was playing in my head where I was overconfident in determining who was male or female. Something you have to be very careful with nowadays! For example, someone was standing at the entrance with 'her' back towards me. That was of course until 'she' turned around with a beard reminiscent of Gandalf and a voice that could rival Barry White. I'm surprised their voice was so deep considering how tight their pants were.
Tight pants do not link to the picture of me below, of course ...
As much as Bangkok was an experience, it's not really what we were looking for. So we left the ladyboys behind with no hard feelings, travelling north to explore authentic Thailand.
Ayutthaya – The Ancient Capital of Thailand
Ayutthaya is one of Thailand's ancient capitals located 55 miles north of Bangkok. Only 300 years ago, this city was considered to be the most powerful in Southeast Asia and home to many elephants and Angkor Wat style temples. That is, until the Burmese, after hundreds of years and many attempts, finally managed to breach the city and burn it to the ground.
Today, all that is left is a rich vein of history and over a dozen temples to be explored. Elephants do still walk the streets of Ayutthaya, but instead of warriors on their backs, they carry something far more dangerous: camera-wielding tourists with silly grins on their face. More on that later …
It was also noticeable when exploring the temples that most of the Buddha heads had been removed. My first thought was that it was the Burmese, but we later learned that they had been chopped off by looters and sold to private collectors from the United States and Europe. So be sure to keep a lookout next time you visit a Museum!
However, one Buddha head did miraculously survive and has become a famous landmark in Ayutthaya. A tree sprouted and grew to engulf a Buddha statue. Over centuries, the sandstone body was crushed by the roots into dust, but for some reason, the tree did no damage whatsoever to the head.
The head is now literally a living part of the tree as if protected by the true maternal instinct of mother nature.
Wild Elephants and Cheeky Monkeys - Khoa Yai National Park and Lopburi
Following Ayutthaya was our first experiences of Thai wildlife; one in a jungle and the other in a city.
We opted to go on a guided tour, driving through the borders of Khoa Yai National Park and hiking into the heart of Thailand's most famous jungle. After many twists and turns, minutes spent holding our breath and having our fingers crossed the whole time, we were eventually rewarded in finding the most care-free animals you could imagine. Before our eyes was a herd of wild Indian elephants and a tribe of White-handed Gibbons. Little did we know that seeing these animals as happy as they were in their natural habitat encouraged us to delve deeper into their conservation.
Another one of my favourite memories was shortly after Khoa Yai and travelling northwards to Lopburi. It's nicknamed Monkey City with good reason. The town is entirely overrun by monkeys, littering the city like my bedroom is littered with clothes and empty chocolate wrappers. A manic infestation on roads, obstacles on pavements and scaling buildings like parkour ninjas.
We eventually plucked up the courage to go visit their home in the Prang Sam Yod temple.
I was more than happy taking a backseat for this trip and tasked myself with solely taking pictures. Thankfully, the monkeys were only attracted to people with bags, to which mine conveniently sat nice and safe in a nearby hostel. It wasn't the same for Natasha, however, who was pretty much attacked on entering their domain. I jumped straight to her rescue by pulling the camera out, of course … capturing the worst case of Asian knits Thailand has ever seen!
Fortunately, we managed the whole stay in Lopburi with all four limbs attached. This would make bathing the Elephants of Chiang Mai a lot easier, in our most authentic experience of Thailand.
Chiang Mai – A Traveller's Playground
Chiang Mai, despite being surrounded by a moat and ancient city walls, is simply freedom and a playground for seasoned travellers. Locally owned restaurants, cooking classes and night markets galore offering the most exquisite Thai food you can imagine - all of these at an incredibly low price.
To put it into perspective, go down to your local Thai restaurant and look at how expensive a Phad Thai is, for example. Last time I checked (pre-COVID 19) it was around GBP 11.00. In Chiang Mai, you could find a tastier and a more authentic meal for twenty times cheaper. Yes, only 50p! I felt like I was in heaven. Even more so elevated at over 1000 metres when visiting Doi Suthep, a sacred Buddhist temple overlooking the ever-scenic Chiang Mai.
My absolute favourite Thailand memory was also located just outside of Chiang Mai; Thailand's first Elephant Jungle Sanctuary.
Elephant Jungle Sanctuary
From Childhood to Adulthood
How can I forget the days of being sat cross-legged, inches away from the TV watching The Jungle Book and Dumbo as a child? Despite my Mum's constant reminders of "You're going to get square eyes sitting that close", I couldn't help myself. I would watch these on repeat no matter how scary Shere Khan was, or how much the Mother and Dumbo scene emotionally broke me.
Looking back now at age 27, the portrayal of the treatment of elephants in these cult classics are entirely different - Elephants in their natural habitat vs elephants under human control. I have watched in awe of the scene in The Jungle Book, where all the animals bow to the marching Elephants. I have also watched in horror as the humans forced Dumbo to join the circus. Even though these movies were set over 100 years ago, which movie do you think is more accurate with the world we live in today?
Places like the Chiang Mai Elephant Jungle Sanctuary are the leading examples of both educating tourists and providing these majestic animals with the treatment they deserve. We were lucky enough to contribute to the cause and be part of such a unique, once-in-a-lifetime experience.
Bathing, Brushing and Belly-rubs
Asking both of us to sit still on this day is like trying to tell a fire not to burn. Our eyes alight and every muscle needing to move, to dance, to jump in celebration of FINALLY going to the Elephant Jungle Sanctuary.
Our journey from our hostel towards the Sanctuary was an experience on its own. The natural speed bumps reminiscent of a rickety rollercoaster but did nothing in the way of slowing the driver down. We found ourselves hanging on for dear life in the back of an open-ended pick-up truck, but despite the many near-death experiences, you couldn't help but be in awe of the surrounding greener than green scenery. This was rural Northern Thailand and no doubt the perfect setting for an elephant sanctuary.
We stumble out the truck, unsure whether we're half dazed from the ride of our lives or mesmerised by the free-roaming elephants in the distance.
Within minutes we were dressed in traditional 'Karen' clothing and allocated bananas and sugar cane to feed our new friends. I will never forget rushing and mushing rice and bananas into bitesise balls and hurrying over to the elephants before they 'freely roamed' somewhere else. Fortunately, they were just as excited to see us. In particular, a baby elephant who ran over to us excitedly flapping his ears.
Little did Disney-crazed James know that his journey would take him away from touching distance of the TV, all the way to touching distance of a real-life Dumbo …
After the elephants were fully fed, we led them all to a nearby mud spa. Wild elephants bathe and will cover themselves and others in their herd with mud or dirt as a natural form of insect repellent and sunscreen. Here they had us to do it for them. I didn't want to miss out on all the fun, so I put my Go Pro to the side and got down and dirty as the elephants continued basking in the Thailand Sun. However, some elephants took it upon themselves to roll around like a naughty dog in a forbidden puddle.
Next - just as you would with the naughty dog - it was time for a bath. Here, I was grateful that I did not bring my Go Pro with me. It wouldn't have lasted 5 seconds amongst the chaos of the elephants playing all around us. One second you'd be minding your own business, the next second an ominous trunk would emerge from the water and blast 4 litres of water into your face. Hold on Mr Elephant, you're getting the bath here, not me!
Bathing, Brushing and Belly-rubs repeated many times in that order until it was time to get one last picture with our new best friends. What an incredibly unique and unrivalled experience!
Laos (Week 3)
Where Beer Is Cheaper Than Water
The Liverpool Supporters of Laos
Having also ticked Pai and Chiang Rai off the bucket list, we waved goodbye to once in a lifetime accommodation and Mario Kart on the Nintendo Switch, with fond memories.
Now it was time to cross the border into Laos.
The Liverpool Supporters of Laos
For me, the priority wasn't getting our transport and visa's sorted. Instead, it was getting through the border as early as possible, so I was in time for Liverpool's up and coming Premier League game. Fortunately, I made it with plenty of time to spare, but unfortunately, I couldn't get good wifi and was subsequently unable to stream it on my tablet. My mind quickly raced to a family I passed about 20 minutes ago who were in their house watching the match build-up.
I remember that their door was open, so I just wandered down the street and poked my head through. The problem wasn't the fact that this stranger had just walked into their house, but more so that they couldn't understand a word I was saying. I just remember pointing to my Liverpool top and praying for them to let me in. They smiled, gestured for me to sit down on the couch and handed me a beer. What incredible hospitality, made even better by a Salah / Coutinho masterclass and Liverpool comfortably winning 3-0.
The Gibbon Experience - Monkeying around
There was an explosion in my brain the next morning, the good sort. In place of a hangover, there was a buzz of electricity, the type that carries more possibilities than I can usually handle ... It was the calling card of living life as a Gibbon in Laos' oldest rainforest.
Gone are the days in climbing trees and making dens out of sofa cushions in your living room. Combining them both, however, was something I could only dream about. Here we were in Laos, fulfilling childish fantasies in the most extreme way possible.
This was a zip lining experience like no other, as not only will we be flying over canopies, but we will be living in one too. Here we were being treated to the world's HIGHEST treehouse in Lao's Nam Kan National Park.
The first zipline was merely an ice breaker taking us to a worn path leading upwards into a seemingly impenetrable rainforest. Moving forward and up as trees closed in all around us. Blocking the sunlight and trapping the humid air, with sweat running down my skin like condensation on a windowpane.
The deeper we go into the jungle, the more disorientated I become. It felt like being dropped out far into the ocean, only it is not blue I am submerged in but a million shades of green. I am both grounded and anxious by the thousands of animal noises, as my mind races to the deadliest animal imaginable. Grizzly bears are tree trunks, low hanging vines are venomous snakes and jaguars are ready to pounce around every corner.
The best way of escape was the first of many extreme ziplines, taking us closer and closer to our accommodation …
The Treehouse of Tranquillity
Our perseverance finally paid off as the trees opened to reveal the much-anticipated treehouse, suspended at over 180 feet and only accessible via zipline.
I was the first one to volunteer, so just imagine having this treehouse all to yourself (even if it was just for a minute or two).
As if the architecture wasn't impressive enough, the view whilst having a shower was out of this world mesmeric. Mum always used to say I spent too much time in the shower, if every view was like this, I think she would understand why …
It didn't faze us one bit being so high up, to the point where we opted to go even higher and sleep on the top floor of the treehouse. Not even the ever-curious nocturnal animals scurrying and sniffing around our tent bothered us, it was more exciting than anything. Hold on … are we still the same two people that used to shut out the world???
Gibbon La Vida Loca
Leaving my favourite accommodation of travelling was admittedly difficult, but made a lot easier having to do it via something as cool as a zipline. Better yet, we knew that today was going to be the extreme part of the tour, scaling canopies faster than the Gibbons.
I peered suspiciously over the edge of the cliff, took a deep breath, leaned back and let go. I plummeted down, down, down, the air scrambled past me, doing its best to push me back to safety. Instead, it started to blow away my fear and transform it into adrenaline. My heart leapt and began charging at my chest, trying to get out and see what in the world was going on out there.
Being suspended so high at such a colossal speed was a feeling of pure euphoria. Dominating the sky like a bird of prey flying strong against the headwind. Soaring above newly painted trees, dripping green and coating the landscape thicker than a winter blanket. This. Was. Awesome.
Again and again, we would board more adrenaline-fuelled ziplines up until we were canvassed by the most incredible Laos sunset imaginable. Left physically and mentally mindblown, there was no choice to turn to alcohol. Beer is cheaper than water you say?? Oh, go on then!
Luang Prabang - Slow and Steady Wins the Race
Time to board the slow boat halfway through its journey down the Mekong River. China and Burma left behind, it was now time for it to pick us up in Laos and take on a split 7-hour journey to Luang Prabang.
It was called the slow boat for a reason, giving us all the time in the world to relax as we weaved through lush green hills rising steeply up on either side of the river, a welcome throwback to Milford Sound in New Zealand. Relaxing included plenty of time appreciating the incredible Laos countryside, laughing at the unfortunate souls who took the fast boat and even getting a bit of quality time to write about New Zealand …
Hungry Bears and Enchanting Waterfalls
Luang Prabang had a bit of a Chiang Mai feel to it with days spent visiting sacred temples, observing monks day-to-day lives and indulging in food from night markets.
We've visited a fair number of night markets during our trip through South-East Asia, but Luang Prabang was our favourite. Even though it's touristy, we didn't find it overly crowded. There was plenty of space to walk around, and there are hundreds of colourful stalls selling souvenirs and handmade goods from Laos. In particular, there was a bottle of whisky with a King Cobra that I managed to get as a very cheap souvenir present for my brother. Still, to this day (17 September 2020 – which is day 1029) it is sat in my brother's car unopened.
Something different to Chiang Mai was the incredible waterfalls that surround the town. One of which is the natural pride and joy of Laos; the Kuang Si Waterfall. This was heaven on earth for people like me, so easily enchanted by the tranquillity and brutality of a waterfall.
This was heaven on earth for Natasha too, so easily enchanted by a Moon Bear eating his breakfast in a nearby sanctuary.
The Living Land Company - Rice Rice Baby
My favourite experience in Luang Prabang, however, was without a doubt; The Living Land Company.
After a very early yoga session overlooking the heart of the Mekong river, it was time to experience the life of a Laos rice farmer (and to see whether I have been taking Uncle Ben's rice for granted all my life). I have loved Asian cuisine for as long as I can remember, and here in South East Asia, it tastes even better for an unbelievably lower price. I couldn't wait to learn what their secret was in somewhere so serene.
There were 13 stages in total to produce rice including; planting, harvesting, threshing, milling, grinding and cultivating. From memory, it was a very hands-and-feet-on experience, which just shows the level of effort they go through for what we think is just a simple bowl of rice.
Time spent trolling through mud planting seeds, guiding a water buffalo (named Susan) to plough the land and taking well-earned breaks to play *sepak takraw will live long in the memory. Also, I cannot forget being fed unlimited amounts of sticky rice and washing it down with sugarcane juice.
Despite being so full of all the free food throughout the tour, we couldn't help but immerse ourselves in more Laos cuisine … and one more game of *sepak takraw, before hometime.
* football tennis with a handwoven bamboo ball
For all of my videos in Laos visit the below youtube link;
Cambodia (Week 4)
"Hey my friend, you want Tuk Tuk?"
Following Luang Prabang was our flight into Siem Reap in Cambodia, knowing that we had around 7 days before a flight back to Thailand.
Cambodia is a place where Tuk Tuks outnumber cars by the thousands. If you're not getting offers for Tuk Tuks on every street corner then it's simple: you're not in Siem Reap.
The Temples of Angkor
For those who don't know, Siem Reap is home to the most famous tourist attraction in the world; Angkor Wat (Temple City).
My experience of temples starts with watching Indiana Jones as a child and ends with the occasional game of Temple Run on the iPhone. There was also Lara Croft's Tomb Raider, but to be honest, I was more interested in Angelina Jolie than paying attention to anything else. So it's safe to say that I had a lot to learn …
Built in the 12th century and rediscovered in the 1840s by the French explorer Henri Mouhot, Angkor Wat is an architectural crowning glory in a complex of more than 1000 temples, shrines and tombs in Northern Cambodia. It was designed as a Hindu temple in Worship of Vishnu and was the beating heart of a Hindu Kingdom that used to stretch to China.
To all that visit, Angkor Wat is so much more than an opportunity to explore ancient ruins. It's a powerful reminder of the soaring ambitions of creativity and the fundamental human need to leave something permanent behind. Nowadays it sends a powerful religious message: that nothing material is eternal and that given time all will be reclaimed by nature.
Fatigue Is Temporary, But Memories Last Forever
Angkor Wat and all the surrounding temples are a backpackers paradise for those willing to strive for the most authentic experience. For Natasha and I, we were up at 3 am primed and ready for our Tuk Tuk driver to take us to see the sunrise over Angkor Wat.
Even writing this back now I still shudder at the feeling of waking up so early, but it's not like we were going to work or it was 'leg day' at the gym. This was a ONCE IN A LIFETIME experience that we were never going to miss no matter what the price was.
I remember talking to a couple who told us that its "way too early" for them to consider watching a sunrise. Each to their own I suppose, but it's something I don't think I'll ever understand. I mean, what's a few hours of sleep in comparison to an everlasting life experience?
While these people got their much-desired nights sleep, Natasha and I were already at the Angkor Wat gates in prime position for sunrise. Specifically, we were sat here in the pitch black, barely able to see our outstretched hands …
I will never forget the silhouette of Angkor Wat canvassed by dusk slowly turning into dawn. As the sun started to rise, so did the warmth in my soul as I stood entranced by the unveiling of the spiral towers. As the morning progressed, we would gradually make out the extraneous detail of the temples in full appreciation of the architecture from almost 1000 years ago.
In summary, the early morning arrival at Angkor Wat was the welcome touch we needed and a promise for the rest of the day to come.
Tuk Tuk Mao and the Tomb Raider Temple
We would quickly get some breakfast before we started making full use of our 'day pass' exploring all the best temples. Our ever-enthusiastic Tuk Tuk driver was much more than our chauffeur for the day. He also specialised in photography and shouting at any overbearing tourists getting in the way.
Some people would find this awkward, but we found it hilarious, which made for a proper cheesy smile in each of the pictures. It's as if we had all the Temples of Angkor to ourselves…
After exploring the ever-photogenic faces of Angkor Thom and the Terrace of the Elephants, we venture to the Ta Prohm Temple home of the Lara Croft: Tomb Raider (2001). Ta Prohm is most impressive as it's still in remarkable condition considering its location in the heart of a jungle.
Next was the icing on the cake; exploration of the Angkor Wat ruins.
Wat An Experience
Before entering Angkor Wat, we learned that the temple's design is supposed to represent Mount Meru, the 'home of the gods' in Tanzania. Its five towers are intended to recreate it's five peaks, while the walls and moat below honour the surrounding mountain ranges and the sea.
A 15-foot high wall protected the city, the temple and residents from invasion. Nowadays, they only get invaded by around 3,000,000 tourists each year. I'll let you decide whether that's better or worse.
There was one 'invasion' which will no doubt live long in a Cambodian's memory. This was when Cambodia fell into a brutal civil war in the 1970s under the influence of Pol Pot. Fortunately, Angkor Wat only sustained minimal damage, and this was evident with bullet holes marking its outer walls. This level of durability is the reason why the ruins are still intact and perfect for exploration.
The inside of Angkor Wat was like nothing I had ever seen before on a scale I could never have anticipated. It was as if I accessed a CS Lewis portal into another world. I remember having to double-check I wandered through an actual doorway and not through an ominous looking wardrobe. I could only imagine the reaction of Henri Mouhot when rediscovering this ancient city in the middle of a Cambodian Jungle.
Mao was in his element again, showing us all the best spots and barking at tourists like a territorial dog.
In summary, Angkor Wat was my absolute favourite part of South East Asia.
A book chapter, picture or video could never do this place any justice. Knowing that the Temples have already endured centuries and will still outlast the newest skyscrapers in today's major cities. Simply unbelievable.
Phnom Penh – A Capital City In Remission
It's safe to say that we didn't know much about Cambodia before we visited. Siem Reap completely took us by surprise, as even away from the temples was a beautiful countryside waiting to be explored by bike.
Outside of Siem Reap past the Tonle Sap lake and down to the Capital City was a completely different story.
Phnom Penh was undoubtedly an experience. Yes, the Royal Palace was beautiful, and most of the residents were very welcoming, but the city as a whole was awful.
I remember that we opted to walk from the bus depot to our hostel in the very early hours of the morning. As the sun rose, so did the smell of garbage up our nostrils. There were points where we had to cross the street to avoid the barricade of trash spilling onto the street. It was vile to see how a capital city nowadays can live like this. It's important to note that this only applied to the minority of residents, as most are trying to instigate cleaning up the city. Who knows, given that we're two years on now maybe it's squeaky clean now?
Disrespectful Tourism
It wasn't the cleanliness of the city that was the main problem, but more so people trying to rip us off with disrespectful tourist traps. As I touched on in the Angkor Wat segment, Cambodia is overshadowed by the tragedy of the 1970s civil war, which led to the death of over a third of Cambodian's. Sadly Phnom Penh was hit the hardest and is still recovering. Unfortunately, certain individuals try to exploit this nightmare by giving you 'the full experience' in a 'money-saving package'. This involves:
1. Shooting machine guns, bazookas, RPG's … you name it.
2. Visiting the S21 prison – a place where 17,000 people were detained and only 12 people survived.
3. Visiting the Killing Fields – I don't think I need to explain this one.
I'm sorry but who in the right mind would want to play with weapons before learning about a massacre that happened less than 50 years ago?
A Lesson To Be Learned
We declined option 1 and decided to go with 2 and 3. It's difficult to put this into words, to be honest. This was a harrowing experience. I just remember feeling empty on driving back to our hostel emotionally drained. At the same time, you cannot simply forget that this ever happened. The tale of S21 isn't something that's defined as history, this is a warning to how such massacres can escalate so unknowingly. The chances are the beginning of something like this is happening somewhere else in the world right now, so we need to educate ourselves and ensure that this does not happen again.
I can certainly appreciate that Phnom Penh may still be in a state of recovery, but it wasn't for either of us, unfortunately.
I thought a sunset over the Royal Palace would help replenish the cities reserves of charm. I was wrong. It's a story I wouldn't share in this book but would happily share with you in person…
For all of my videos in Cambodia visit the below Youtube link;
Southern Thailand (Weeks 5 and 6)
Relaxation Retreat
Never have I been so happy to board a plane before. Not because Phnom Penh was THAT bad, but simply because this was the last stage of our travels before surprising our families for Christmas. I was now officially in holiday mode. The budget book was thrown aside with the focus now on simply relaxing, enjoying the time we had left and most of all, CELEBRATING the time spent travelling the world.
We landed in Phuket - a tiny island accessible by a bridge in the south-west of Thailand - and strove for cheap and cheerful again in Patong. Quickly we realised that Patong was far too touristy for us.
I feel the energy and usually love the vibe of a crowd, but I didn't want to be the raindrop that joined the ocean for the last 2 weeks of travelling. I wanted to find a quiet tree in a quiet spot to feel serenity one last time. I wanted to be the raindrop that falls on the beach, sits on a pebble and adores the ocean from close by, savouring the motion of the waves and an ice-cold beer.
The initial answer was Old Town Phuket with the tastiest Tom Yum soup imaginable and a short trip to the incredibly picturesque James Bond Island...
A Happy Ending in Koh Lipe
The much anticipated happy ending was Koh Lipe; a lonely paradise island distant from the thousands of full-moon-party crazed tourists.
Just because I said I wanted relaxation didn't mean thrills en route to Koh Lipe was out of the question...
I remember our adrenaline-fuelled speed boat crashing through the waves with all the smoothness of a go-kart over speed bumps. Our teeth involuntarily chomping after each bump, our legs braced the entire time with our life jackets tighter than a ladyboys trousers. To be honest, the experience was great, even more so as we watched the "party animals" trying to sleep off their hangover. The boat gradually emptied as we reached Island after Island, up until we eventually entered the borders of paradise.
Koh Lipe was simple perfection. Unspoiled beaches, lush green forests and a lonely sun emitting wave upon wave of heat in a clear blue sky. Even the ocean breeze was hot. The shore is more reminiscent of opening an oven on baking day than standing on a beach back in the UK. Every now and then, a cool draught of air whips over the waves, bringing the saltiness of the ocean with it, but not too much that it lessens the taste of the Singha Beer in-hand.
The absence of light meant only one thing: to cross to the other side of the island and experience a final Thailand sunset.
I remember being sat comfy as ever, looking over the boats that scattered the harbour like autumn leaves in a pond. Their colours were beautiful and random, but nothing in comparison to the colour infused sky as if newly painted by Monet. Birds chirped a background melody and wheeled overhead in lazy arcs, mirroring our newly found feeling of serenity. We simply sat there and reflected on everything we have achieved with all of our travelling, whilst being witness to a Thailand sunset as the dwarf star melted into the horizon. Just like that, we're in darkness as if credits had opened to signal the end of our travelling.
In the unlikely event that this book turns into a movie, I am proud to say that the credits would read:
BASED ON A TRUE STORY
For all of my videos in Thailand visit the below youtube link;
A Travellers Summary
It’s Like Learning A Foreign Language
If I were to make receipts for every good thing travelling had given me, there would not be a tree left standing in New Zealand.
All these words explaining my travelling experiences don't come close to the way it has moved me. I have lived beyond the confines of the Isle of Man, tried new things, met new people, visited extraordinary places and learned about other cultures.
Then all of a sudden, it was over.
You return home, have your reunions, spend your first two weeks meeting with family and friends, catch up, tell stories, reminisce, etc. You're Hollywood for the first few weeks back and it's all new and exciting. And then it all just…goes away. Everyone gets used to you being home, you're not the new shiny object anymore, and the questions start coming: So do you have a job yet? What's your plan? When are you buying a house?
But the sad part is once you've done your obligatory visits for being away for so long; you're sitting in the exact same place you were half a year ago and realise that nothing has changed. You're glad everyone is happy and healthy, but part of you is screaming "don't you understand how much I have changed?". And I don't mean anything appearance-related. I mean what's going on inside of your head. The way your dreams have changed, the way you perceive people differently, the habits you're happy you lost, the new things that are important to you. You want everyone to recognise this, and you want to share and discuss it, but people that you speak to don't really understand. It's like you've learned a foreign language that no one around you speaks.
You feel angry. You feel lost. You have moments where you feel like it wasn't worth it because nothing has changed, but then you feel like it's the only thing you've done that is important because it changed everything.
Next Stop, South America
This is why the moment I returned from travelling, all I wanted to do was leave again. They call it the travel bug, but really it's the effort to return to a place where you are surrounded by people who speak the same language. Not English or Spanish or Mandarin or Portuguese, but that language where others know what it's like to leave, change, grow, experience, learn, then go home again and feel more lost in your hometown then you did in the most foreign place you visited.
Travelling Brazil, Argentina, Chile, Bolivia and Peru in South America was undoubtedly worth writing down. I loved every second of it. The problem is that there was a lot of drinking involved, which has somewhat hindered the fine details.
It's a good job I have a compilation of some of my favourite memories below ...
Writing this now two years after the time of my life travelling South America (and amidst a Global Pandemic), I have realised that it's time for a completely new start somewhere else. Having thrived on so many different experiences while travelling, the Isle of Man has become way too familiar now. However, I have gained so much since returning home, and all I want to do now is put them to good use - as soon as the world allows me!
Here's to the next exciting chapter in my life!
