Contents
Intro:
- The Kiwi Experience
Adrenaline:
- It All Started With A Skydive
- Nevis Bungee – The World's Third Highest Bungee Jump
- The Nevis Swing – The World’s Worst Anniversary Present
- Tubing the Waitomo Glow Worm Caves – The Legendary Black Water Rafting Company
Adventure:
- Ice Cool in Franz Josef
- Milford Sound – The Eighth Wonder of the World
- Tamaki Village – Home of The Haka
All Things Lord of the Rings:
- Hobbiton – When A Dream Becomes Reality
- Edoras – Home of The Rohirrim
- Wellington Location Hunting - Weta Cave, Rivendell and Old Forest
- Queenstown Location Hunting - Beacons of Gondor, Ithilien Camp, Ford of Bruinen, Edge of Fangorn Forest, Amon Hen and Eastern Shore
Summary:
- What New Zealand Means To Me
INTRO
The Kiwi Experience
New Zealand; hailed by many travellers as "the most beautiful country in the world", something we didn't believe until we witnessed it for ourselves. Never in my life have I enjoyed a more stunning landscape with such postcard-perfect views, on roads perfectly tailored to our spirit for adventure and our Travellers Autobarn Camper Van. This Camper Van was our home for the One month we travelled to New Zealand. However, we quickly realised that it wasn't nearly enough time to enjoy all the beauty and adventure on offer in this dynamic country, so we decided to put our 'own spin' on this amazing opportunity.
I will never forget driving to the most sublime camping spots you can imagine, cooking dinner beside pristine lakes, sleeping under a clear, unspoiled night sky, breathing in the crisp, fresh air each morning on opening the sliding doors. Not even the ever-hungry sandflies could take a chunk out of this incredible outdoor New Zealand experience. The Camper Van was so much more than our accommodation, but more-so our very own magic carpet to take us around this whole new world.
In being such a small country, it was so easy to get into the outdoors and embrace all these unique landscapes, taking advantage of the most popular spots and not forgetting them hidden gems too! We marked all our favourite locations on a make-shift printed out map, seemingly just dots scattered around two islands, waiting to be gobbled by our Camper Van like a classic game of mobile Snake. The plan was to start in Auckland and finish in Christchurch. It looks easy enough (on paper!).
I couldn't have possibly written about everything we did in New Zealand, so I have chosen to split all my favourite memories into three categories; Adrenaline, Adventure and All Things Lord of the Rings.
ADRENALINE
New Zealand is a place where my adrenaline-seeking heart found a home, but if I'm honest, I never knew the extent I was searching for pre-travelling. We had come so far, all the way to New Zealand; the undisputed adrenaline capital of the world. Yet, how far were we willing to challenge ourselves, to put our comfort-zones aside for the ultimate test of character? The answer was Skydiving, Bungee Jumping and Canyon Swinging. Ultimate new experiences already planned, pre-paid and waiting for us. We would never have expected in a million years to love them all as much as we did. It's amazing what you can find hidden within when you open your mind, push your limits and broaden your horizon.
If there was one thing I remember from Biology, it was how adrenaline works. It activates my sympathetic nervous system, making my heart beat faster, diverting blood around my body and resulting in an unparalleled rush of euphoria. If there is one thing I have learned since travelling, it's that I love this feeling. Some people have their drugs, paying all that money every week for a temporary high and a horrendous come-down. This, however, is entirely different but the same all at once. To be Skydiving as high as 15000ft and to come-down with sheer speed and velocity, is for me, the best feeling in the world. Something that will last forever. Adrenaline. My drug of choice. An addiction I am proud of.
It all started with a SkyDive …
The first time we had done anything so extreme, so we wanted to do it in the best way possible … 15000ft over New Zealand's largest lake; North Island's Lake Taupo.
Signing our life away on a disclaimer has never been so easy! The only difficulty we had that morning was choosing the music to accompany our Skydive videos, as we had chosen to go all out and pay for the full caboodle; a 'Selfie Cam' and our very own freefalling camera guy. Not only would this capture our most exciting experience so far from all angles, but also be proof more crystal clear than Lake Taupo for any doubters at home!
Our tandem masters take us outside for a quick pre-dive interview, capturing every bit of raw emotion on camera – where I did my best to cover up my last-minute nerves! Any nerves I had, however, were outweighed by the feeling of excitement. I have been waiting for this moment for so long now. I honestly couldn't wait to get going!
We were the first and only ones to jump that hour, making it a much more personal experience for us both. With no one else obstructing the windows all around the plane, we get some incredible views as we rise above the Great Lake Taupo. Up here, we get to appreciate how large the lake is; it's so large that they say that Singapore could fit into it! Soon enough, we are above the clouds, so the rest of the views will have to be taken in on the way down.
Throughout the plane journey, our cameramen are capturing the moments of anticipation. The colour of our faces thinning faster than the air at an ever-growing altitude! I remember we got so high that our breath was rising in miniature clouds and then freezing right in front of our eyes. It got so cold that the Tandem Masters had to keep opening and closing the doors to ensure they didn't freeze over! Can you imagine that, to come all that way up to find there was no way out?! I glanced over to the tandem masters watch to see we were approaching 15000ft, maybe the doors freezing over isn't so bad after all? The air may have been thinning, but the nervous atmosphere you could have cut with a knife, the time to jump was coming thick and fast …
There has never been anything more real for me than shuffling towards an open door of an aeroplane suspended at 15000ft. To then dangle your legs out over the edge was almost too much for me! It was too late for nerves now, besides, our tandem master wouldn't be able to hear any last-second cries for help! Now it was about accepting. This was going to happen, no matter what! I remember everything happening so fast …
One second we were on the plane, the next we were tumbling in complete freefall. I would only catch glimpses of it disappearing away into the distance as my body attempted to level out with the mesmerising scenery far below. I couldn't think straight; my mind and body were spinning faster than the tornado-like winds around us. All I knew was the plane that roared so loud only moments ago now couldn't be heard, replaced by the deafening noise of breaking the sound barrier. Streamlined in break-neck speed, I do my best to stop the wind from parachuting my cheeks open. Free falling like this was the best feeling in the world, so new and exciting, the perfect gateway to displaying such raw and incomparable emotion! I spot the cameraman flying towards me from out of nowhere, like an on-call superman here to save the day. My flailing arms misinterpreted, this was something I didn't need saving from! I was fist-pumping and loving every second of it! So instead round and around us he went, capturing every moment of pure euphoria. There was no playing up for the cameras, this was me in a completely natural state, only fitting to something as crazy and adrenaline pumping as Sky Diving! I had never felt so alive before.
My brain catches up with me somewhere on the way down. Then after the most everlasting sixty seconds of freefall, the parachute comes up to bring everything to an abrupt halt. Finally, my senses are starting to come back together. My Tandem master doesn't hesitate to go into interview mode again in an attempt to capture all the raw, post-skydive emotion. As you can see from the picture below, I was in no fit state to be asked any questions. The face below is a mix of the best experience of my life and brain freeze.
I have always said that you appreciate the end result so much more after perseverance and some good old-fashioned hard work (not that Sky diving is old fashioned, but it certainly was hard work)! I was completely exhausted but had just enough energy to take advantage of flying under a parachute, over somewhere so mesmerising. Hovering at 1000ft, we got to appreciate the incredible and unobscured beauty that New Zealand has to offer, ranging from snowy peaks and primaeval forests to desert volcanoes and vast greenery disappearing into the horizon. Up here you can see why all these dramatic landscapes contribute to New Zealand's undisputed Title as the Adventure Capital of the World; the absolute perfect setting for somewhere as magical as J R R Tolkien's Middle Earth too.
Touching back down to earth again, physically and mentally mind-blown. This was a feeling only worthy of a 15000ft Skydive in New Zealand, and what a feeling it was! We had done it and - better yet - got the videos to prove it!
Nevis Bungee – The World's Third Highest Bungee Jump
Last day in Queenstown, let's go out with a bang! Actually, no, hopefully not while Bungee jumping!
I will never forget waking up on this day. It was the very early hours of Spring Morning at Lake Hayes where the frost was even more bitter than the waking thought of a Bungee Jump. It was freezing outside; surely this was the reason why I was shaking so much? It proved that even on heated coach transportation that this was just pure nerves, seemingly the same for everyone else on board too. We all knew that the 3rd Highest Bungee Jump in the world waited for us at the top of the Queenstown Canyon. As if that wasn't bad enough, the nerves were then made worse by the frail Nevis Road in the lead-up, like crossing a rickety bridge over a lava moat. On any other day, this would have been enough extreme for one morning!
As we neared our destination, the five senses were tingling on high alert. I could smell fear circulating a nerve-struck coach. The deafening silence. The feel of my heart beating out my chest, pounding like it was going to crack a rib. On arrival there was then the bitter taste of an early defeat, given the unforgiving sight now in front of me; a Cable Car suspended 134 Metres above ground.
After tentatively walking over a (literal) rickety bridge I then found out that alphabetically, I was second on the list to jump. Giving me more invaluable thinking time. I was counting on the guy before me to tell me how easy it was, and that it was the best experience of his life, he would do anything just to do it again etc. He came back up even more terrified than before his jump. Looking back now, it was probably a good thing that he couldn't put two words together; I don't think I was going to get the desired pep-talk.
I'm weighed one more time and harnessed up to the soundtrack of heavy metal - fitting background music to the craziest episode of my life. At this point, I lost all mobility in my legs. I was distracted in trying so hard to compose myself, that suddenly I found that my legs had been unknowingly tied together! There was then the unforgettable moment of being told to stand up and shuffle towards a suspended ledge, knowing that within a few seconds you will be jumping towards and unforgiving ground with only an elasticated rope to save you. So there I was, like a penguin being made to walk the plank, standing over a 134 Metre Canyon, being asked if I have any "words for home?", "Yes mate, I have quite a few words I would like to say now, but none of them fit for home". Then feeling the hand on your back after the fastest 3-2-1 of my life, and then jumping.
The urge to jump reacts before my brain can comprehend what was happening. The split-second after was the most terrifying experience of my life, then suddenly, all tension disappeared faster than the previous 3-2-1. As if I had just jumped through a barrier of inhibition, into the Canyon of no-cares; New Zealand's very own adrenaline-fueled therapy. It's hard to explain, but plummeting towards the ground with every confidence you were going to survive was no doubt the best feeling in the world. The raging fire in the pit of my stomach. An inferno of adrenaline was now surging through me; the type that no amount of Gaviscon could cure! Such a release. Such an experience. After three upside-down bounces and making my way back up to the platform, there was only one thing going through my mind: "I want to do it all again!". To be continued (one day) with the worlds highest Bungee Jump!
Every picture tells it's own story, which saves me a lot of time trying to explain the best feeling in the world, also assisted by a video put together by the Nevis Team ...
The Nevis Swing – The Worlds Worst Anniversary Present
Next was The Nevis Swing, famous for being the worlds largest of it's kind. A 70-meter free fall followed by a 300-meter long arc. A challenge and an achievement all in one, but after the bungee, I felt ready for any challenge life would throw at me. The menacing wooden bridge from before was now like one out of a child's playground, as I ran excitedly to our next adrenaline-stop. I was even more excited as Natasha had already agreed to do this with me, booked before our travels as a present to celebrate our anniversary. I couldn't think of a better present, to be honest …
Natasha, on the other hand, wasn't as enthusiastic, but had at least had the bottle to give it a go!
I could see how tense she was even from the other side of the bridge, reminiscent of the 'pre-bungee' James Gifford from only moments ago. I knew how she was feeling; the lead up is such a terrifying experience, almost more intense than the actual thing. It's just about building momentum at this point and then just taking the plunge.
We were being strapped in before we knew it, and whilst harnessing up I could see a sign showing pictures of different positions for the Swing; an option for 'Guides Choice'. I was curious, so I asked about it. They suggested that I do the Swing backwards and upside down. Not the most romantic hand-holding experience for our anniversary, but certainly the most adrenaline-fueled! The option was extended to Natasha too, who gallantly refused, choosing to hang on as tight as possible from an upright position! Then, before Natasha could say that she hated me one last time, the guide started the countdown. There was no 'hanging around', we were released without any hesitation leading to the most terrifying screams you will ever hear, but contributing to one of the best adrenaline-pumping experiences of our lives!
The best of the action, in my opinion, was from the Go Pro. Here is the uncensored, 1st person lead up and Swing release;
Tubing the Glow Worm Caves in Waitomo – The Legendary Black Water Rafting Company
A mixture of Adrenaline and Adventure now. Perfectly suited to both of our personalities and perfectly situated in North Island's Waitomo Caves.
The Waitomo Glow Worms are unique to New Zealand's impressive network of underground caves, where the thousands upon thousands radiate a luminescent light to attract their prey. Little do they know that this 'glow' also attracts thousands upon thousands of travellers from all around the world too, all here (just like us) to marvel at mother nature's underground light display. We couldn't wait to witness the famous Glowworm population in an up-close and personal experience, also in the most ultimate way possible too! But first, we suit up with some super thick wetsuits, neoprene socks, short gumboots that tie up at the front, another wetsuit jacket, a thermal top, and finally a helmet. Just in time for a group photo too …
Today we wanted to prove that you don't have to rocket into space to discover alien landscapes. So we opted for the most authentic version of deep-space exploration; The Black Abyss. Despite the many portals into this underworld, we chose to enter via the Ruakari Cave, famous for its geologically striking array of limestone formations and thousands of 'straw' stalactites hanging from the ceiling. Suspended 35 metres above ground, the only way we could embark on this mission was to abseil down, the rest of the journey would have to be completed on foot and via Tubing.
If you haven't heard of Tubing before, it's just an inflatable ring, slightly more practical than a 'rubber-dingy'. This was our transport for the afternoon, to take us on a unique caving adventure, and we were about to put it through all sorts of grief! Jumping with it off waterfalls, drifting down cavern streams, carrying it over rapids. The reward at the end would be the soothing lights of the glow worms! A chance to test it's (and our) limits to achieve something truly unforgettable.
Our tour guide introduces himself and gives a quick rundown of the glowworm cave house rules: no touching the limestone formations and no photography! First thought was, typical tourist scam, they're going to deprive you of a camera and charge something ridiculous at the end. But that 'no photography' thing is well worth mentioning, especially in this day and age where we feel obligated to take photos of everything! Not only does the 'no photography' rule enhance the view of the glowworms, but it just allows us to relax and enjoy ourselves. We were relieved to go on a tour and enjoy it for what it is.
Our first job was to leave the daylight behind, to descend our way into the Black Abyss literally! Steadiness was vital to start with, getting used to the rope passing through our fingers as we were lowered slowly, opting to be swallowed by the rock beneath. Despite being temporarily lodged in his throat, we managed to wriggle our way through into the seemingly bottomless pit of his stomach. Eventually, we touched down in complete darkness. Not all was lost, however, after getting our first glimpse of some Glow Worms, seemingly lighting the way for the start of our journey.
A couple of narrow passages later we then arrive at the most daunting zip line that I have ever seen in my life! It was ridiculous, a zipline into darkness, and our only passage into the deepest part of the Ruakari Cave. We were strapped in and released just like that. We moved so fast that our head torches were useless, the only sense that seemed to work was our ears, hearing the screams as each person descended into the unknown. But that was the whole fun of it! Such an abnormal experience!
We land in a place where there's a lot of rafting tubes about, so it looks like we have to jump in the water from here. We have a huge jump to do in emphatic style. Tubes hugging our bums, we jump backwards and feel the shock as we plunge into the ice-cold water. The splash of all splashes echoes around the cave walls. Loud enough to scare away all the Glow Worms? Hopefully not.
After a quick water aerobics session to get the warmth pumping around the body again, we lie back and relax in our tubes, drifting effortlessly with the underground current. We continue floating along and notice that the guide has gone very quiet… and it's pitch black… is he even here anymore? Did we go down a wrong tunnel somewhere? As we meander along the Waitomo River, we find out soon enough. We too are now struck by the silence, gazing at a haze of glowworm lights, making up the famous Glow Worm Grotto. We are sat there with our mouths hanging open. We too would be catching flies like the glowworms if their light wasn't so inviting! Like Saphire jewellery hanging from the ceiling, creating such a serene and calming ambience! Just like looking at a sky full of stars, a galaxy of tiny living lights literally within touching distance.
As we leave the majestic glowworms behind, daylight is spotted at the end of the tunnel. But first, we had some work to do. Fighting our way out of the cave through rapids and up underground waterfalls was the most physically demanding of the whole afternoon, but worth every bit of effort having now ascended to such a beautiful forest.
After being submerged underground for three hours, it's all too easy to appreciate breathing the fresh air again. In being somewhere so abnormal, your imagination runs as wild as the free-roaming animals in the surrounding primaeval forest. You can only imagine how amazing it must have been for the people who first discovered these caves in what would have been in the middle of the forest long ago! At least everything we did today was tried and tested! Such an incredible and unforgettable experience.
Adventure
Ice Cool in Franz Josef
The small town of Franz Josef has a very alpine charm to it, with plenty of fire lit pubs and fine ales to keep you warm for the year-long wintery conditions. The Franz Josef Glacier is the obvious main attraction to somewhere so remote. This and the neighbouring Fox Glacier are remarkable for many reasons – including their proximity to the sea and the speed they move – but, most importantly, because visitors can venture on their frozen flanks to explore an incredible ice-scape. We were lucky enough to have this pre-booked as part of our New Zealand adventure.
Morning is calm before the storm. Am I craving a traditional full English breakfast in Franz Josef, where better to go than a place called Full of Beans? There it is, first on the menu in bold. Perfectly placed for home-comfort travellers such as myself. On receiving my order, however, there seems to be something missing. I call over the waiter, an opportunity for him to spill the beans – preferably on my plate, please! Despite the misleading name of the café, I didn't leave a morsel that morning, the perfect energy food for the day's activity. Or so we thought …
The morning sun that had risen full of promise now hid behind a thick layer of low hanging cloud, which very inconveniently hung above the Glacier we were supposed to be hiking today. Day 1 was cancelled, but didn't stop us indulging in the Glacier Hot Pools! We didn't want to miss hiking a Glacier, so all other plans we had for the week were put on hold as we waited for this once in a lifetime opportunity. Day 2 was the same story, cancelled again. The rain was an added dampener to our already sunken spirits, contributing to the lowest point of New Zealand so far. Just like the cloud above we were starting to overstay our welcome too, tonight would be our 3rd and final night in which we were allowed to stay in the campsite. It had to be tomorrow or never.
"Good things come to those who wait, so long as you persevere". A saying that we have lived by since travelling. This example was our best to date. The next day was the best weather we could have hoped for, a perfect setting for the most incredible memories …
Take off! We rise smoothly into the air and watch the distance between us and the ground become greater and greater. There it was in the distance, the Franz Josef Glacier. The closer and closer we got, the more real it became. There was no turning back now, even if landing on the Glacier did look impossible. Despite the supposed fragility of the ice, we weren't taking things lightly, landing all 5 tonnes of the helicopter in textbook fashion.
Today was all about exploring one of the worlds most famous Glaciers. Something that thanks to Global Warming, we won't be able to do in 25 years! That is why we went with the highly recommended Franz Josef Glacier Guides, who are all about trekking the Glacier in the most conservative way. The only ice-breaking that morning was conversing with our group of like-minded people, who too have patiently waited and were raring to go! We all tightened up our crampons as quick as we could and proceeded to board the time machine back to the Ice Age.
The sun was out in full force this morning, emitting wave after wave of heat in the middle of a pale blue sky. Way up here in the mountains, however, it couldn't be more different. The only clouds that came up here were after each exhale; it was absolutely freezing! No matter how warm the blood in your veins, or the number of layers you were wearing, your face got frozen just the same. It was the kind of cold that made you want to get moving at the earliest opportunity, not that we needed any incentive to explore this winter wonderland.
Just like our helicopter transport moments ago, I thought I'd been taken for another ride. After the first steps, I was questioning how hiking on ice is safe? Hiking on the Ice was like nothing I had ever experienced before. Each step with my metal-studded crampons I expected a crack, an opening in the floor and to fall to my impending doom. But the ice was solid! We heard many stories that morning of how the Glacier is cracking, melting and even shifting up to a meter per day, but this is supposedly a prolonged process and wouldn't affect our hike. Hiking now with complete peace of mind I have never felt so secure in such an environment before; maybe it was my new found confidence or the towering walls of ice surrounding us?
We continued meandering through the icy labyrinth, while we didn't meet any Minotaur's, we did come across a blockage. Luckily, however, there was a great big hole in the middle for us to pass through!
We were starting to see streams from where the ice had melted in the higher section of the Glacier. Instead of being concerned, our guide invites us to drink. Around mid-gulp of 'Glacial Goodness' we find that the melting ice is completely normal for this time of day, where it merely just freezes over again at night!
Meaning, that when we caught first sight of a glacial pool, I didn't hesitate in putting my face in, as you do!
We were nearing the end of our trip, but first, who would dare pass up the opportunity to explore one of the few blue-tinted ice caves?
Despite hitting a dead-end, we made our way back to base as it was just about time to reunite with the all-too-familiar town of Franz Josef. This ice adventure may have taken a chunk out of our trip to New Zealand, but I can honestly say that the Franz Josef Glacier was well worth waiting for!
Milford Sound – The Eighth Wonder of the World
Visiting New Zealand's Fiordland is like travelling back to a time before humans. While New Zealand's coast has no shortage of handsome nooks and crannies, despite being located at the bottom, Milford Sound tops the lot in terms of sheer natural, untouched beauty and abundance of marine and wildlife.
Being one of the lowest points in the Southern hemisphere, it really does have a classic end-of-the earth environment and is rightly described by Rudyard Kipling as the 'Eighth Wonder of the World'. Last touched by its creator; the glaciers of the ice age thousands of years ago, Milford Sound is special even by New Zealand's high standards! An unearthly place, dripped green as if newly painted - fiord-cliffs rise vertically from dark waters, mountain peaks scrape the sky and waterfalls cascade from as high as 1000 metres. New Zealand's South Island has the most picturesque landscapes imaginable, but none so jaw-dropping and pristine.
South Island has lived up to all of the scenic expectations, transporting us to and from fictional worlds as we please. The feeling of being on an entirely different planet is the most surreal experience of travelling so far, especially in somewhere as magical as Tolkien's Middle Earth. Today, however, our Lord of the Rings experience would be put on hold, yet, another 'out of this world' experience awaited us. This was our one-way ticket to The Floating Mountains of Pandora, from James Cameron's Avatar.
Our vessel ready and WAITING FOR US was a luxurious cruise liner. There would be no waiting patiently, just about the only excursion in New Zealand that ISN'T weather dependent! The lead up was an experience on its own, and it was so satisfying to hear that there's no such thing as 'feeling under the weather' in Milford Sound, with all weathers adding its own unique dimension in a climate entirely separate to New Zealand's. In a place which rains of 200 days a year, we weren't holding our breath for a sunny day. But, we were told that Milford puts on a show even in the pouring rain; where the already many waterfalls multiply with magnificent effect! Take it as it comes and enjoy it in whatever weather!
We couldn't have asked for a better day. We were gliding into narrow channels hemmed in by mountain walls, forested down to the water's edge. Riding on the boat with no cares in the world whatsoever, just enjoying the beautiful scenery on the sunniest day of our New Zealand adventure so far.
The only shaded part of the tour was, in my opinion, the best! I had learned by now that my Go Pro was water-resistant to up to a depth of 10 metres, but could it withstand the power of going underneath Milford's largest Waterfall? It was also a good test of how waterproof my coat was. You will see why below …
It was worth getting absolutely soaked for, what a way to end another incredible New Zealand experience! I dried off on the top deck as we went back to the Port, with just enough time for one last Milford Sound Panorama …
Tamaki Village – Home of The Haka
New Zealand's Maori culture is yet another drawcard to this unique country. As the first settlers in New Zealand more than a thousand years ago, the Maori are described as New Zealand's indigenous people. Tamaki Village offers the perfect gateway into an eye-popping and authentic Maori experience.
Here we were for the most traditional welcome into both New Zealand and the world of Maori! We have delved deep into Fijian culture; now we would go even deeper into the Kiwi version in North Island's Geothermal Rotorua. Here, we would board our very own time-machine, back to a time of proud warriors and ancient traditions. An opportunity for us to learn the traditional Maori way of life; experiencing ceremonial rituals, powerful performances and Hangi feasting. This is exactly why we came travelling, the chance to immerse ourselves in different cultures around the world.
Before the traditional welcoming ceremony (called a Powhiri), we had to nominate a Chief, a tribe leader to represent our group of 20, to lead them to greatness, but more importantly into the Tawa Forest where our Maori Experience would begin. I was the only volunteer, so I gallantly accepted. Before the Tawa Forest, I had to lead the group to a courtyard, where we would gather and have explained to us all the procedures before they occur, and also learn the strict etiquette for a Powhiri showing. I was told as tribe leader to keep hold of a Fern leaf at all times, until the point where I lay it on the ground in front of one of the warriors to welcome our group as friends, not foes. This isn't the first time I have felt the heat in Rotorua, having visited the Wai o Tapu Geothermal Pools only yesterday. A lot of pressure to put on one mans shoulders, but I have been carrying a 12 Kilo Bag pack for well over a month now, so no problem at all for me! The most important rule, however, was NOT TO LAUGH OR EVEN SMILE! It has always been a tradition to greet all visitors to their village in an 'unorthodox' way, and to laugh would be disrespectful and may offend them, not to mention also their opportunity to turn you away! If anything, their performance was more terrifying than funny …
We all faced a village entrance built into the face of the native Tawa forest, then suddenly there was a deafening sound of a horn being blown, the type that rumbles through the floor. I remember thinking no wonder there is so much seismic activity in Rotorua! The sound grows even louder as some Maori women emerge above the entrance, then the chanting and shouting of men come from a small stream beside the entrance. An authentic war canoe (Waka) paddled by Maori warriors slowly comes into sight, as they poked around the corner it seemed they were covered by more tattoos than skin, dominating from their arms to their face. These warriors then jumped out, making sudden jolting movements with a big wooden pole, not leaving eye contact with us three representing tribe leaders in an attempt to intimidate. I remember a warrior approaching me first, widening his eyes and sticking out his tongue, skillfully manoeuvring his weapon in my direction, doing his best to unnerve me. Once I passed 'the test' he then invited me to come forward so I could present the Fern leaf. In words, the whole process sounds silly, but in reality, it was terrifying.
The Chief of the Maori tribe then gave his speeches and welcomed us into the village.
Newly promoted as Tribe Leader, I led our group into the forest backed by the ladies, then finally the men follow behind as to protect the women from any potential threats coming from behind. There was the safe and comforting thought, however, that not only were the group following their Tribe Leader but also following Tradition in their first experience of Maori Culture. The only threat that night was hypothermia .. it was freezing!
We split into groups and rotated different stations around the village nestled in the native forest. Tribe members wait for us with stories to tell, activities to try, and explanations into different aspects of the Maori culture. Priority number 1, however, was to get moving and the blood pumping around the body for warmth. SO what better to do than get into a large circle to play some Maori games? We meet some Maori women who teach some of the ladies in our group (including Natasha - nominated by me), how to perform dances with the Poi – a decorated ball hanging from the attached rope. Natasha hilariously butchers the beauty of dancing with a Poi, and any chances of a career in Testicular examination.
Moving swiftly on there was plenty of opportunities for the men to get involved too! This comes with the more fierce competition of Poi Rakau; a mixture of people and poles where you would wait for the Maori left or right (Matau and Maui) instruction and frantically try to grab the pole next to you before it falls. As you can imagine, it takes a while for things to go smoothly… It's a mess of falling poles to start with, but by the end, everyone is nailing it, like literally nailing their poles to the ground, so they didn't fall over. This was deemed as cheating so we were forced to play properly. We got so good in the end we were rivalling even the Tribe members, which I thought was some achievement.
On to the next station now, where we learn about the customs, protocols and stories that have been passed through the many generations of Maori. My favourite station, however, was the opportunity to learn the all-famous Haka! As tribe leader, I had to show by example and take centre stage in my interpretation of this powerful cultural performance of song and dance. I have to admit, trying to perform something as intimidating as the Haka next to these huge Maori guys was the toughest challenge of travelling so far. All the Men were then invited to share the limelight with me, and much to my own dignity, cocked it up almost as bad as I did!
Making a fool out of yourself builds up an appetite, the hunger kicked in just in time for our traditional hangi Buffet Meal. But just before that we were treated to the final night's entertainment …
If you have seen the All Blacks performing the war dance of the Haka, then you may think the Maori are well-known for being fierce warriors. It throws you off guard when you see how powerful their songs are along with distinct jolting movements and shaking of the hands, especially in an up-close and personal experience.
Our Tamaki Village experience takes us well into the night, so all there is to do when we finish, is collapse into our campervan bed.
All Things Lord of the Rings
"One does not simply walk into Mordor", but I hiked the Tongariro Crossing, and that's about as close as you can get.
The main selling point for us coming to New Zealand. Initially, we were considering doing an Ultimate Lord of the Rings package, where we would be hand-held and taken to all of the Lord of the Rings filming locations around North and South Island. Instead, however, we chose the more hands-on (and much more fun!) approach of hiring a Camper van and finding the locations ourselves. Now we had all the freedom of Middle Earth, all we needed now was determination, perseverance and the help of a Location guidebook! This book would have done wonders for Frodo and Sam, not only did it give you pictures and detailed background information, but also exact GPS coordinates of where the Filming locations were. It was as simple as putting them into Google Maps, and off we went.
Some took more planning and time to find than others, but that was the whole fun of it. I remember being part of a walking tour in Wellington and the guide said: "They did some filming for LOTR in Mount Victoria, but they are too difficult to find so I wouldn't bother". "Challenge accepted Mr Tour Guide". Yes, it was difficult to find them, but it was so worth it when they were there right in front of us. It's so much more satisfying succeeding after some grit and determination. Good things come to those who wait, but only if you persevere!
We went to some incredible places, that weren't just special because of the Lord of the Rings likeness, but also because the views were spectacular and unrivalled by anything else we have ever seen before. This wasn't just Middle Earth; it was New Zealand … the next best thing!
To be in this position where I am writing about 'All Things Lord of the Rings', just hits home that I have fulfilled this life-long ambition, dating back to the early 2000s when the movies were released. Writing them all back and seeing the pictures has taken me back to such a happy place, as if I'm going through the new and exciting journey all over again ...
Hobbiton – When A Dream Becomes Reality
Natasha and I were thinking about living in New Zealand … and this is where the house hunting started, in a little place called Matamata; home to Middle Earth's Hobbiton from J R R Tolkien's Lord of the Rings. I couldn't think of anything better than living life as a Hobbit; indulging in 7 meals a day, passion for brewing and drinking of ales, relaxing with your (Hobbit) feet-up in the sun; all contributing to a much desired, laid-back and peaceful lifestyle.
I like to think that I kept emotionally stable for the whole of our travels, but even just on the Coach journey to the Hobbiton set, I found it difficult to contain myself. Just driving and taking in the scenery around us, the mounds and mounds of greener than green hills bouncing the sun's rays on a perfect Spring morning, that accompanied by The Shire music in the background was all too much to handle! I hadn't even made it outside yet and already I thought I was going to explode.
New Zealand has already been such a land of fantasy, and Matamata was no different, we were simply in dreamland here. There have been many up's and downs in New Zealand so far (down's from as high as 15000ft and 134 Metres!), but this was on another level to anything we have EVER done. Our life-long ambition was being fulfilled; to be standing here as Hobbits of The Shire, was the most surreal, mesmerising, keep-having-to-pinch-ourselves experience of our lives.
Finally off the Coach and there it was, instantly recognisable, straight out of the movie the famous Bilbo Baggins "I'm going on an adventure!" scene as if it had just happened. Moving into the actual Hobbiton set, I could see how Bilbo hurdled everything so easily; everything was so small. Ranging from Houses to wheelbarrows, everything was perfectly resized and adapted for a 3ft 7inches Hobbit to go about their day.
There was then a sudden sense of déjà vu ... a small road leading up to the top of a hill, I have seen this before but only in my dreams. The dream soon became a reality in taking the very same road as Gandalf in his horse and cart all the way up to Bag End; home to Bilbo and Frodo Baggins. While there was 'no admittance except for party business', even just being outside Bad End and taking in the scenery around us was enough to satisfy any Lord of the Rings fan. Here you got a full view of an illuminated Shire – lucky for us – as shown in the movies!
There was then the party under the Party Tree, the stop off at Samwise Gamgee's house but to top it all off was our stay in the Green Dragon Inn.
The Green Dragon Inn was the meeting place for all residents of Hobbiton, who would gather in the warm surroundings of the bar to chatter about 'queer folk' and the day's events. We didn't stay in the bar; we instead sat outside with the perfect view of the Mill and Bywater lake. I remember I used to get excited about eating a chippy with a view of the river Mersey (honestly, ask my Mum!), now look at us …
The quality of the ale and food in The Green Dragon Inn was renowned throughout The Shire, and something I have dreamt about since I was a child, so we had to indulge ourselves in Hobbit cuisine to fulfil such childish fantasies. 'Second Breakfast' has never tasted so good! We both shared a cookie and a steak and ale pie, there was no sharing the Beer, however, far too good to turn down now it traditionally "comes in pints"! Thank you Pippin! I was also grateful for the opportunity to dress up as a Hobbit too …
It was time to go home, and for us to tactically walk as slow as possible back to the Coach, just to stay in Hobbiton that little bit longer. They weren't going to leave without us, but if they did where better to be left?
Edoras – Home of The Rohirrim
Edoras. Home to King Théoden and the Riders of Rohan in Tolkien's Middle Earth. In the real world, however, it's known by the lesser name of Mount Potts. Today, we would be in dreamland again and opt to pass through the 'gap of Rohan' to indulge in another fantasy of mine.
This is something we wanted to do from day one in New Zealand. We were on a mission and nothing would stop us. Not the two-hour drive of unpaved roads, not the supposed horrendous weather that was due, not even the fact that the actual set was taken down shortly after filming. This was all about using your imagination which, funnily enough, comes quite naturally to someone who has watched Lord of the Rings as much as I have!
Driving towards Edoras we had mastered the unpaved roads and seemingly dodged the bad weather. It was something else, however, that we had to dodge en route to Mount Potts. The saying in New Zealand goes that "there's ten times more sheep than people", and here they all were, a never-ending flock of them blocking the way literally minutes before our final destination. As you can imagine the wait was killing me, especially as we were now so close and just as the weather had turned perfect!
Just as our lives did travelling to the other side of the world, we had to take another unexpected direction; this time to a middle of nowhere car park waiting for the sheep to pass us by.
In the end, the wait was worth it. This was more than just a mound in the middle of farmland. This was nostalgia, something I have seen so many times before but only on a TV screen. To be stood here as Aragorn, Gandalf, Gimli and Legolas did in The Two Towers and taking in Edoras for the first time. I was surrounded by the South Island's incredible and unique version of Middle Earth scenery pinching myself. This is something you don't get to experience every day!
Wellington Location Hunting - Weta Cave, Rivendell and Old Forest
Located slap-bang in the middle of New Zealand, Wellington boasts the majority of the Lord of the Rings filming locations in North Island. The first opportunity for us to take advantage of both the convenience of having a campervan and the filming locations being so close together. Admittedly when we GPS'd the nearest locations (Rivendell, River Anduin, Isengard Garden's, Helm's Deep, Weta Cave and Old Forest), it looked a bit too much for one day, especially when we have to find them too. So I tried to get us on a Tour, but, fortunately for us, there was no space. I say fortunately because it made us get off our backsides and find them ourselves, which consequently made the experience so much more satisfying.
Our solo journey began at The Weta Cave Workshop located in the heart of Wellington, originally co-founded by the famous Peter Jackson. This is the world's leading special effects and props studio and had plenty to show for it letting you go behind the scenes of 'The Lord of the Rings' and other blockbusters. It was All Things Lord of the Rings (and the life-size trolls guarding the entrance!) that caught my attention, even more so when we were taken somewhere which wasn't on the usual itinerary. We were relocated somewhere extra special, a place where all the Lord of the Rings props were made and most of them kept! So much to the point that we were strictly told we weren't allowed to take any pictures. I didn't want to waste time looking through a lens anyway; I wanted to savour every second of having my childhood dreams right in front of my eyes. We were allowed to take a few pictures in the workshop though …
Next was a location just outside of Wellington, all the way up the motorway. This was just about the only LOTR location in New Zealand that was signposted; there would be no getting lost this far! On arrival, we walked into this forest area and already it had the Rivendell feel. We learned that the majority of the set was made from polystyrene and would never have withstood the ever-changing New Zealand climate. They did leave a few things, however, like the arch the Fellowship walk out of when leaving Rivendell (Extended Edition only) which made for a great picture.
Now next is something I touched on in the introduction to this chapter, something we had no reason to be confident about finding. This was our challenge, to go against the advice of our Tour Guide and do our best to find four filming locations in Mount Victoria. The Hobbits Hideout, Frodo's Tree, "Get Off The Road" and Nazgul in the moonlight – all in the epic 'Shortcut to Mushrooms' scene in The Fellowship of the Ring.
This is where the book was helpful and unhelpful at the same time; it told us where the locations were but not the exact GPS coordinates. Mount Victoria forest is a big place, and there are many different paths and entrances to take. So the only real way to find these locations is by walking around and hoping you have the LOTR know-how to recognise one tree out of the thousands. I remember it was over an hour of walking, asking questions, turning the map upside-down before we began to make any progress. These white rectangular posts were signalling and outlining which path was which, to which some absolute God-send had graffitied the way we needed to be going. So we followed the advice of this nameless hero and found our way to two of the four locations without further delay; The Hobbits Hideout and "Get Off The Road" …
Buoyed by our recent findings there were two more we wanted to locate, but simply couldn't find and ended up running out of time. I think if I remember rightly we delayed the boat next day to South Island so that we could have another crack the next morning …
So we got up nice and early for part 2 of Mount Victoria Location hunting and got straight to it. No time for me to even put my walking boots on, there was no messing around. We were going to find these no matter what! Wow, this took a lot off the beaten path wrong turns and telling the map it's wrong as it was, in fact, Natasha in the end that was the winner of the most prolonged tree 'hide and seek' ever! When it is there right in front of you it's obvious; you just need to get in the right place first! And kudos to Natasha for being in the right place. This was 'Frodo's Tree' from The Fellowship of the Ring's Extended Edition, where he is lay smoking a pipe moments before he and Sam see the Wood Elves. This wasn't just a tree; it was the ultimate test for Lord of the Ring's fans which I'm proud to say that we finally passed!
There was just enough time for one more location in Mount Victoria, which was probably the easiest one of the lot! Nazgul in the Moonlight, even recognisable in the daytime.
It was a solid day and a half of all things Lord of the Rings, but it was certainly worth it!
Queenstown Location Hunting - Beacons of Gondor, Ithilien Camp, Ford of Bruinen, Edge of Fangorn Forest, Amon Hen and Eastern Shore
Queenstown, the adrenaline capital of the world with Bungee jumping, Skydiving, canyon swings and luging galore! The perfect place for thrill-seekers to satisfy their hunger for adrenaline. Whilst we were looking forward to the Bungee jump and Swing, I would be lying if I said that seeking the many Lord of the Rings locations in Queenstown wasn't the main drawcard. This was the place in all of New Zealand where most of the filming was done, in being an area of such varied landscapes and geological formations. The most noticeable and well known are The Remarkables (aka The Beacons of Gondor); a dramatic mountain range of snow-capped peaks that stretch through the centre of Queenstown, and the perfect background setting for somewhere as magical as Middle Earth.
In this fantasy land, we would be visiting as many locations as possible, but this time with an actual tour guide. There was so much of Queenstown to be explored, with a lot of the locations being off-road, meaning we needed something a little bit more practical than a campervan! This long-awaited excursion is probably the first thing we booked before coming travelling; a 4x4 Tour of Lord of the Rings filming locations in and around Queenstown.
We started by heading out of Queenstown towards Glenorchy, where the 'Ithilien' scenes were filmed when Captain Faramir captured Frodo and Sam. We were in the place where Sam and Gollum argued about how to cook the brace of Konies. The best scene, however, was moments after this where they saw Oliphants for the first time …
Next was The Ford of Bruinen. This is the famous scene from the Fellowship of the Ring, where Arwen crosses the river to escape the Ringwraiths. Knowing how afraid the Ringwraiths are of natural elements, she enchants the river to come crashing down on them. I'm confident in saying that we got the full experience as our 4x4 magically turned into a boat … The best thing about this video isn't the fact that we are in the Ford of Bruinen, but more so the fact that Natasha thinks I'm capturing the action in front, and not the reaction behind …
Now for my favourite locations in South Island. The reason why was because of 3 simple things; the remoteness, the likeness to the movie and the stunning natural scenery. After having an amazing day yesterday with our tour guide, it was time for our personal guided tour (with the help of the app Campermate!). Today was the day we went to Fangorn Forrest and the Eastern Shore, located around New Zealand's picturesque Mavora Lakes. Just like Edoras, this involved well over an hour of driving on unpaved roads. Dodging the potholes was hard enough, but dodging the lousy weather proved even harder, luckily for us there was light at the end of the tunnel as if the desired locations had been illuminated just for our arrival. Finally the first stop at the edge of Fangorn Forest – most recognisable from where the mound of Orcs were piled up, but for me, it was noticeable straight away from where we first saw Shadowfax in The Two Towers. Whilst there was no Shadowfax today, it was still such a surreal feeling standing where Gandalf stood.
The final stop was right at the end of the unpaved road and was instantly recognisable at the end of the first movie; the edge of Amon Hen, Falls of Rauros and – most noticeably - the Eastern Shore.
Maybe it was pent up frustration from the long drive or maybe we just really wanted to get into character … either way, we weren't going to pass up the opportunity to re-enact our favourite series of movies …
Honourable mentions of Lord of the Rings and Hobbit Locations ...
Mount Doom
Barrel Riding River
Isildur attacked
Inside Amon Hen
Dead Marshes
Pelennor Fields
After visiting all these locations, it seems like I have driven every unpaved section in New Zealand. As the saying goes, I don't want to go down that road again, but there is nothing I would like more than to relive all of these fantastic experiences.
Summary
What New Zealand means to me
In Fiji, when you're walking down the street you acknowledge most people you walk past. That may mean a verbal hello, a small wave, smile, a simple head nod or a combination of them all. This is something which has carried on throughout our travels and in turn, got us speaking to people we will never forget. When these people ask what our favourite country is we don't even hesitate anymore. Without a doubt New Zealand, easily the BEST month in our lives.
Something is calling me back to New Zealand. As actioned packed this month has been, I couldn't help but feel there was so much more to be explored. Scuba Diving in the Bay of Islands, whale and dolphin watching in Kaikoura, the incredible views and hiking opportunities in Wanaka, all included on my next quest to Middle Earth. Rivalled only by something as magical as New Zealand; my new favourite place in the world.
For all of my Youtube videos from New Zealand, please click here.
