Australia, October 2017 - You Shall Not Pass!
- James Gifford
- May 21, 2020
- 26 min read
Updated: Sep 24, 2020
"One day - around mid-morning on the 50th day of COVID 19 quarantine – a self-isolated James Gifford decided that his Australia Blog was about Two years overdue. So, he actually decided to sit down and write it. Better yet, he found this very enjoyable."
Contents
Intro
- My Self-isolation vacation
- Travelling: it leaves you speechless then turns you into a storyteller
- A First Backpacking experience
- Fun, Food & Friends
Melbourne vs Sydney
- Mischievous Melbourne
- Scintillating Sydney
Byron Bay
- The Town of free Spirits
- The Path of Illumination
- A Whale of a Time
- Sandy Hair and Salty Skin
Fraser Island
- Dingoes Barking up the Wrong tree
Whitsunday Islands
- All Hands on Deck!
- My safe-haven, Whitehaven
- A Turtle Misunderstanding
Cairns
- White Water Shafting
- Cape Tribulation
- Unbottle Your Wildest Fantasies
Summary
- Overcoming the Land down under
INTRO
My self-isolation vacation
I miss the feeling of freedom. I mean, who doesn't in times like these? As our quarantine lingers, the unrivalled freedom of travelling the world is something I have reminisced about more and more lately. As you can tell, the thought has now evolved into something worth writing down.
Why it has taken a Worldwide pandemic to sit down and finish writing 'Australia', I'll never know. All I know is that this has served as an extremely useful mental tool, transporting me from the confines of my bedroom to some of my most treasured memories half-the-world-away.
Fortunately for us, there were many memories to treasure, in another unforgettable month of our lives.
Travelling: it leaves you speechless then turns you into a storyteller
Touching down in Melbourne Australia, in our Third month of travelling, still facing the "fear" of being so far away from the place we call home. Yet, this travelling malarkey was now becoming 2nd nature. The days of locking out the world in the safety of our homes were now but a distant memory, a bad habit long forgotten. Here we were, still pinching ourselves on the other side of the world in a completely new state of mind.
I remember when the word 'adventure' used to be changing Supermarkets from Shoprite to Tesco, substituting Washing Powder and Fabric Softener for the new 'Ariel all in one', or even something as meaningless as getting a new haircut. I remember when the word 'journey' used to be the distance between the Isle of Man's Outback and the Courthouse - every single weekend! Now, here we were in Australia, the place of the REAL Outback, about to embark on an unforgettable journey up the East Coast from Melbourne to Cairns.
Exploring the Great Barrier Reef, sailing the Whitsundays, chasing Dingoes on Fraser Island and many more exciting adventures were all to come. We were told that whether you are a competitive tanner, diver, surfer, backpacker or wildlife enthusiast, Australia has something for everyone and we honestly couldn't wait to see what it had in store for us.
A First Backpacking Experience
The convenience of transport, accommodation and a kitchen all in one was no longer a privilege, having handed in the keys for the Campervan back in Christchurch, New Zealand. As incredible as New Zealand was, having all these luxuries didn't give us the full bag-packing experience. Now masters of living outside our comfort zones, we knew that with hostels, Greyhound bus transportation and two 12 kilo backpacks to carry, this is precisely what we signed up for in Australia!
Some people would say that it's frustrating to be packing your bag every couple of days, having to carry it on your back to get to your next destination. Yes, I was tired, my back was sore, my legs were stiff and my bag was heavy, but really, I loved carrying my backpack with me. It's a constant reminder that we were travelling, that this wasn't just another holiday. Every ache and pain was nothing compared to this sense of freedom. The heavy bag was a weight off my shoulders!
Fun, Food & Friends
Australia was a great place to meet fellow backpackers and be social, even if being social did come at a price, meeting like-minded travellers was worth every penny.
In somewhere as expensive as the East Coast, we knew it was going to eat away at that budget we have tried so hard to maintain, but it was the actual eating which took a considerable chunk out of our budget in the end! Where we fell into a routine of meeting up with friends, getting to know restaurant staff, loving the food we spoiled ourselves with, and then going back again the next day.
This is one of the biggest surprises I found when travelling… the need to find somewhere reminiscent of home. Somewhere familiar, welcoming and comforting to help cure any deep-lying homesickness. A place where just seeing it promotes this soothing frisson of joy, you know, the same kind you feel when your dog greets you after a long day. Some travellers turn to the nearest pub or a quiet room where they can read their book and listen to their music, my safe haven, however, was simply a full English breakfast.
Another surprise when travelling is how hard it was saying goodbye to friends you'd just met. One of the best things about Australia, however, was that almost everyone you bumped into had the same travelling itinerary, so it was more than likely that you'd bump into them again! Our journey, just like so many others, started in Melbourne and Sydney …
Melbourne vs Sydney
Mischievous Melbourne
We were lucky enough to have free accommodation waiting for us in Melbourne, thanks to the generosity of our friend called Simon, who lived an hour outside the city in a place called Werribee. Whilst it was great to be in somewhere as famous and exciting as Melbourne, I would be lying if I said that being somewhere with a double bed and a kitchen wasn't the main attraction, at least for the start of our Oz Experience! Still though, we couldn't wait to see what authentic Melbourne had to offer.
Sophisticated and slick, edgy and rough, Melbourne's physical and cultural landscape is shaped by a dynamic population, ever-ravenous - like us - for a bite of global culture. The result is Australia's most accessible multiculturalism, both scenic and cosmopolitan, with diverse, dynamic inhabitants that proudly claim their title as Australia's cultural capital.
You'll even find them defending the city's temperamental weather. Suppose you've ever experienced Melbourne's inclination to plummet from searing heat to drizzling rain in the space of an hour. In that case, you'll understand that this must be the true definition of unconditional love. Fortunately for us, the weather was perfect for the 5 days we were in Melbourne.
Day 2 in Melbourne, and it wasn't long before we learned that sport was a crucial part of the social fabric. Melbourne's sporting calendar is packed with all sorts of electrifying events; international cricket, the Melbourne Cup, the Australian Formula One Grand Prix and Australian Tennis Open. But one sport which takes a particular religious aspect here is the Australian Football League (AFL). While we were too early for the Melbourne Open, we 'touched down' just in time for the winner's ceremony of the AFL.
What I appreciated most about Melbourne is it's proven reputation as a style setter. Not that I am the biggest lover of art (or even a style-setter, funnily enough!), but even someone as inexperienced as me could easily appreciate the urbanistic scenery around us. There was the aboriginal building, where if you stand back far enough you can make out the face of an aborigine, in acknowledgement of Melbourne's first settlers many years ago. There was the building shaped like a Sim card (I wasn't really 'phoned' of this one, to be honest). My favourite, however, was Hosier Lane.
In the dim light that oozes through a narrow gap lies the daunting city alleyway. The underworld of any town: gloomy and unpleasant. Hosier Lane in Melbourne couldn't be more indifferent. Street art covered almost every nook and cranny of this alleyway, which is home to some incredible worldwide talent.
I will never forget walking through Hosier Lane, taking in the worldwide talent of graffiti and hearing Melbournian murmurs of how they beat Sydney to it every year, of course! I found that this alleyway summed up the whole of Melbourne, as a truly creative and colourful city, spray-painted in fun and youthful vibes.
Scintillating Sydney
A place where National parks ring the city and penetrate right into its heart. Large chunks of the harbour are still edged with bush, while parks cut their way through the skyscrapers and suburbs. Consequently, native insects turn up in the most surprising places, oversized spiders stake out the corners of lounge room walls and possums rattle over the roofs of terrace houses. At times Sydney's concrete jungle seems more like an actual one – and doesn't that just make it all the more exciting? But not for the faint-hearted.
With so much to see in this vast land down under, we only planned for a couple of days in Sydney before 'hitting the Reef'. Considering two days is not a lot of time to explore a city with as much going on as Sydney, we had to hustle a little …
We booked 2 nights at Base Hostel right in the heart of Sydney, within strolling distance of Hyde Park and the Royal Botanical Gardens. But we didn't care much for that. We wanted to make sure we were as closest to the Quay as possible.
The Quay is the central transport hub of Sydney Harbour, and it's here that two of Australia's most famous landmarks reside; the Sydney Opera House and Sydney Harbour Bridge. The main attraction for us, however, was hitting Bondi Beach via the Sydney Ferry.
In comparison to Melbourne, Sydney is loud, uncompromising and in-your-face, and heavily relying on its coastal setting to replenish its reserves of charm. We learned quickly that if you venture too far away from the water, the charm suddenly evaporates! Jump on a ferry however and Sydney's your oyster – not only does it transport you to one of Australia's best beaches, but also internally to a happy place where the beeping of horns, ticking of clocks and stresses of everyday life are unregarded. Sydney's authentic relaxation retreat.
After a lazy afternoon at the beach, we play the leading role as urbane Sydneysiders. We have a disco nap, hit the showers and head out again. We were told that there's always a new restaurant to try, undercover bar to hunt down, a new band to check out, sports team to shout at, show to see or crazy party to attend. Fortunately, the casual vibe of Australia makes it acceptable to go almost anywhere in shorts and a T-shirt. (You could even go to the casino wearing a pair of flip flops!) However, we were much more interested in having a few drinks and going site seeing, in the hope of avoiding the overbearing tourist crowd.
We met up with our good friend James Garnet, formally of the Isle of Man and Fiji, and hit the tourist trail. Sydney Opera House and Sydney Bridge ticked off the bucket list, and it was time to relax and wait for our night bus to our next destination.
The saying goes "time flies when you're having fun". Well, I think it goes that little bit faster after a few drinks. That's my excuse anyway. James and I may have had a tipple and decided to go for a wander around Sydney. Forget the Sydney Opera house, the place to be was the dingy arcade and the most average McDonalds you could imagine. Getting lost in Sydney and losing all concept of time isn't easy, you know (who says men can't multitask, eh?).
As you can imagine, Natasha was quite rightly frustrated at the time we got back and having to run to the bus stop over a mile away. I was also frustrated for when we eventually arrived at the bus stop and soon learned that the bus was over an hour late. All that hustle for nothing 😉
Byron Bay
It is dawn as the overnight bus trundles into the Sydney depot, boarding a very drunk James and a tired-of-my-bullsh*t Natasha.
It takes forever for the old diesel engine to roar into life. With the bus in motion, a funny feeling takes hold. Our eyes bleary, reactions slow and tiredness running in our veins the same way as our blood; the manic of Sydney almost had the better of us! As with all of travelling so far, the feeling of excitement far outweighs all other emotions. The 13-hour journey to the world-renowned Byron Bay was finally underway, patiently waiting for us in the spirit of its laidback lifestyle.
En route to "the town of free spirits", we were treated to a free back massage courtesy of Australia's potholes. Despite an unplanned pitstop to see whether the bus was still intact, I can honestly say peaceful sleep was not hard to come by. Taking advantage of having both accommodation and transport all on a fully reclined leather armchair was a luxury all travellers dream about.
The Town of Free Spirits
On arrival, it didn't take long to realise that Byron Bay is a paradise for surfers, hippies, yogis, health-nuts and free spirits. A postcard-perfect setting on the most easterly point of Australia with the most sublime views you can imagine. This is on EVERYONE's itinerary for travelling up the East Coast of Australia, the reason being is entirely different from any lifestyle you would have ever experienced before.
I will never forget the feeling of euphoria wandering down the beach towards the social hub. There was nothing more rewarding than those hot summer evenings when we would sit on the street and let the sun beat down on our skin. We could feel the tropic, sticky air with each inhalation; the air so thick you could cut through it. I liked the way that, as small, coastal gusts of wind blew past me, my skin would softly shiver before returning to its still, warmed state. The sky changing a million different colours as the sun makes its final descent beneath the hazy horizon. A welcoming pre entertainment before the main event of the night.
Walking through town finding myself engrossed for hours with the sound of bongos and the acoustic melodies of nearby buskers, watching dreadlocked groups free-dancing around colourful combi vans. Sitting back and thinking about it all now, it's incredible that drinking 35-degree red wine and watching this for hours on end was my idea of a perfect night. I remember thinking that there is nowhere else in the world I'd rather be right now.
Somehow this place just spoke to my soul.
The Path of Illumination
After a well-deserved night's sleep and being assured by one of our hostel room-mates that "there was nothing to do here", we were dead set on proving them wrong. A hike to the most powerful and easterly lighthouse in Australia was an excellent place to start.
Byron Bay Lighthouse has become an icon for Byron Bay. Situated on Cape Byron, in an area so naturally beautiful it's begging you to explore on foot, and the coastal walking track is the best way to take it all in.
If you time your visit right, Cape Byron Headland is a great spot for watching humpback whales on their annual migration.
In the distance, we spied a pod of barnacle-encrusted humpback whales breaching the early morning sunlight. In their exuberant display, each whale jumped many times in series. About 90% of their 45-foot length cleared the water each time, and then they turned to land on their side or back. White spray erupted around them as about forty tons of warm-blooded mammal hit the surface. In the forefront, we were also lucky enough to spot Bottlenose Dolphins having some fun too ...
As incredible this was, we were longing for an up-close and more personal experience with these majestic animals. As soon as we touched back to the Hostel, we booked what turned out to be our favourite excursion in Byron Bay.
A Whale Of A Time
The most memorable highlight of our stay in Byron Bay is our Kayaking adventure at sunrise. Having the opportunity to paddle up close with Humpback Whales and Dolphins in somewhere as mesmeric as Cape Byron's National Marine Park is not something we will forget in a hurry.
It all started with the heaviest double-kayak imaginable. On the water, of course, it glides, as weightless as the Earth in space but it takes the two of us to haul it from the truck all the way down to the water's edge. We let the carrot coloured boat bob at the shore - the front end joyously afloat while the rudder is planted in Byron beach.
I remember here taking a well-earned break, standing in 5 am darkness and feeling the winds breeze against us, the ebb and flow of the waves pulling us in and pushing us out with a greater force. Darkness had not long surrendered to the first rays of light, yet we could see the thick grey clouds that were cast over the sky. The sea was tainted; no longer an abyss of black, nor did it appear blue, but instead a metallic grey, glistening as the occasional spear of light pierced through the clouds.
Having worked our way out of the headwind, and against the oncoming waves, we found ourselves in the unbroken calm of the sea. Sunlight now filled the sky, pure scattered light; its rays ambitiously piercing the clouds and illuminating the ripple of each wave.
Here we all formed up and stayed still, listening, looking for any signs of marine life. Sitting sideways on the Kayak in the cool water is soothing - a welcome refresher for the moment I am cast in crimson and bathed in a rosy glow from the morning sun.
Bobbing gently like a toy in the bathtub, surrounded by nothing but silence and accompanied only by hope. We waited patiently. The silence was suddenly broken by a burst of water, followed by Natasha's excitable squeal.
There was our sign; a fountain of water sprayed way up high before spouting back down to the surface. We wait patiently with our eyes fixated to one spot. Knowing that only moments ago, the briny sea water's surface was breached by a majestic Humpback Whale coming up for a breath. I feel my eyes smile and a rising cosiness in my core. We remain still, but my mind wanders, urging me towards their path and the next potential break in the water.
We remain still, and our patience finally pays off.
What a moment! A humpback whale followed by her baby. Their broad backs like glaciated bosses of granite in near view, drawing a long breath and plunging down to continue their migration along the east coast. My eyes follow them keenly as the seagulls chirped an explicit background melody. With breath paused in my lungs, I wished time would halt too.
It was, however, time to paddle back to the shore. A completely different coastline to the one we left a few hours ago; laid softly under the early morning light like a freshly baked cookie already nibbled. In the distance, a spit stretched out into the sea and upon the end was Byron Bay lighthouse. All canvassed by a sunlit Byron Bay.
We are lucky enough to catch a glimpse of bottle-nosed dolphins surfing the waves; a welcome reminder to tomorrows planned activity.
Our Kayaking was coming to an end, and though the day is becoming increasingly hot, we feel more warmed by the mammals of the sea we have been lucky enough to witness.
Sandy Hair and Salty Skin
The sea conditions were far less forgiving on the following day, but we weren't about to wimp out at the chance to catch some waves at one of Australia's greatest surfing spots. I had windsurfed a bit when I was younger. Maybe I was too young at the time, but I never realised how incredible the rush of riding a wave felt.
I'd like to say that having overlooked the goosebumps pricking all over my body I was lost in the rhyme of the surf. But it was quite the opposite; I was terrible. I was lost and submerged underwater half the time! Here I learned that surfing is a very unforgiving sport. You make one mistake and you'll be thrown off and dunked without a moment's hesitation.
Unlike Bungee Jumping and Skydiving, bravery is not enough, you also need ability and a sense of balance. I couldn't accept that I had neither so proceeded to keep trying, failing worse every time. I couldn't even stand up for more than half a second… which means there is no picture to show you other than the happiest person that day.
For anyone that knows me would understand that this is where stubbornness kicks in. In other words: a refusal to be beaten so easily. This is where I had to try again at the earliest opportunity, which happened to be in our next destination at "Surfers Paradise".
The sequel continued in the same manner as Byron Bay, "How Not To Surf" … coming soon to a store near you. I remember then this explosive feeling of positivity, the kind where you are so determined to succeed that failure is impossible.
An oncoming wave approaches as the board is pressed against my chest. I paddle harder and faster than before. I feel the water's surface rising as I transition from beached whale to my knees. Every fibre of my being brims with adrenaline and encourages me to stand up. Before I know it, the cool water is lapping at my feet as I balance and find myself 6ft above the wave! I can't help but smile as the wave and wind propel me forward. The camera is pointed towards me and the "shuckers" are out. The waves ahead roar and roll down, crashing onto the shore with a soft hiss and signal the end of my first surfing experience. I jump in celebration into the Pacific Ocean and breach the surface a new man.
Surfers Paradise lived up to its name and gave me the much-desired picture to prove it!
Sandy hair and salty skin had never felt better!
FRASER ISLAND
I remember speaking to someone on the Isle of Man about travelling the East Coast of Australia for a month. I remember her telling me before I could say anything else, that we had to visit Fraser Island and the Whitsundays.
Having lived half the world away, I had honestly never heard of them, but now sitting here writing this book, I can honestly say they were my absolute favourite adventures from Australia.
Fraser Island is the largest sand island in the WHOLE world, making it one of the most remarkably unique and diverse places to explore in Queensland. We spent the entire 3 days, 4-wheel driving through the island on a Cool Dingo Tour, and still only experienced a mere snapshot of this remarkable place.
We paddle boarded on the crystal-clear waters of Lake Mackenzie, explored the famous Maheno shipwreck, floated down Eli Creek, skimballed the evergreen Lake Wobby and walked through the only sand-based rainforest in the world.
Dingoes barking up the wrong tree
One of the most exciting parts about the tour was learning about the Dingoes; an endemic species to Fraser Island.
My only knowledge of Dingoes was from 'I'm A Celebrity's Dingo Dollar Challenges', I honestly never thought they even existed. Witnessing them up close was a surreal experience, they may look like a dog in appearance, but they were certainly not to be treated like one.
If you see a dog, 99% of humans feel inclined to either pet, cuddle, feed or all of the above. However, Fraser Islands most important rule was not to interact with them at all. This was more for their well-being than your own. Yes, Dingoes are considered as dangerous, more like wolves if anything. But they are creatures of habit, meaning that if we as humans are feeding them, this will encourage them to go looking for us instead of going about their usual hunting. It was heartbreaking to hear that these habits cost their lives as if they do get too close to humans; they are 'humanely put down'.
Luckily for us (and the Dingoes) we got to witness them from the comfort of our bus and had many other unique photo opportunities.
Fraser Island was so good, I ended up staying a little longer than expected. Natasha somehow managed to get the boat at the right time, I was more interested in getting a train to the harbour instead of walking the required 200 metres distance. It's always me, isn't it? Ah well, at least I got the next boat which gave me an incredible sunset picture.
I thought this picture would be good enough to get me out of trouble with Natasha. I was wrong. Still, it was a nice picture though …
Whitsunday Islands
The next adventure we were to embark on was a 3-day sailing experience through the Whitsundays.
The Whitsunday Islands can be found in the heart of the Great Barrier Reef and only a stones-throw off the North East coast of Queensland. As you will no doubt be aware, the world-renowned Great Barrier Reef is Australia's most precious jewel containing an extensive range of marine life. Even more massive than the Great Wall of China, it's the only living thing on Earth visible from space and deservedly claims the title as one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World.
The reef acts as the perfect shelter, resulting in no crashing waves or deadly undertows, making the waters perfect for a once in a lifetime sailing experience.
All Hands On Deck
It quickly became evident to me why this is one of the most popular sailing spots in the world. The 74 islands lay like emerald gems, ringed by untouched beaches and the pale turquoise of shallow waters. Just like our Island-Hopping experience in Fiji, we were weaving in and out of the surrounding islands like an accomplished slalom skier; with the wind in our faces and no cares in the world.
Morning rituals of hoisting the sails were rewarded by afternoons on deck, basking in the sunlight and admiring the views. In a place like the Whitsundays, you don't know where the sea ends, and the sky begins, with the ocean spreading towards the horizon in beautiful shades of crystal, aqua, blue and indigo. Such a serene and tranquil atmosphere, but never the feeling of loneliness as clouds sailed like boats across the sky.
A few beers and many rounds of cards later, the day would fade into the night where we were suddenly covered by a dazzling blanket of stars. Being rocked gently by the caressing current and looking out to vast silence that is the Coral Sea; undisturbed by any noise or light. I longed to sleep on the deck of the boat to fully appreciate the moment, but the evening breeze was a little enthusiastic so being crammed under the deck was just fine for me!
And that's what we all were, crammed under the deck! Laying in the most uncomfortable and compact hammocks you could imagine. Every now and then a chilling breeze would find its way down the stairs and give you an involuntary shiver, followed swiftly by a sneeze and an apology for head-butting the person lay above you.
Far from ideal conditions, even less so when you're woken up at 6 am to the sound of the roaring engine! You would try and sleep through it and add to the less than ideal 4-hour sleep. An impossible task and seemingly our queue to get out of bed. Stumbling your way to the step ladder half-dazed, wondering how you are even going to function today. As soon as you make your way up the ladder, however, everything changes. Standing on the deck you can't help but feel present in the moment, there you are, in the middle of the Great Barrier Reef, taking in all this mesmerising scenery around you in the rejuvenating sunlight. How could you not function on a day like today??
My Safe-haven; Whitehaven
We were even more buoyed this morning as we anchored off at the world-famous Whitehaven beach. Usually, beaches are more people than sand. They lie and sit on towels and chairs, getting in the way of all the fun. Not Whitehaven beach though, we had the luxury of having this all to ourselves.
I am a firm believer that everyone has seen it pictured somewhere; on the TV, a travel brochure, in their dreams. I still picture it lay right in front of us, all lonely and untouched in the early hours of the morning.
The pure white silica sand was blinding at first, as if the gates of heaven had opened. Then my eyes adjusted to the mesmerising scenery in front of me, stretching for miles into the glassy, aqua horizon. I make my way down to the shore, strolling on the soft and sun-warmed blank canvas that was Whitehaven Beach. Every now and then I would look back at my blackened line of footprints, all squiggled and wavy as if I was intoxicated by the strongest dose of euphoria.
The waves at the shore ebbed and flowed, gently kissing the fringes of Whitehaven with all of Mother Nature's maternal instinct. I remember the water being so soothing, drinking away my body heat but giving me that warming, sense of achievement feeling at the same time.
Australia's unique relaxation therapy ticked off the bucket list.
A Turtle Misunderstanding
The mosaics of coral platforms, turquoise lagoons and rich blue channels in the Whitsundays are some of the most pristine areas of the entire Great Barrier Reef and with reef names such as Hook, Line, Sinker and Bait you will be forgiven for thinking that you can fish to your heart's content. However, while you can't bring home the abundance of fish that inhabit the reef, you can witness such a unique display with a mask and snorkel.
It was coming towards the end of our 3-day adventure, but still enough time for one last snorkel in Turtle Bay, famous for it's showing of fully grown Sea Turtles.
Australia's coastline, particularly the Great Barrier Reef is infamously linked to shark sightings and, in the worst cases, attacks. While I knew it was the reputation of the west coast of Australia tarnishing this natural wonder of the world, you still can't help but feel wary of what's down below.
I remember the usual routine of setting off in our powerboat, in search of the best snorkelling spots. Pressing my mask and snorkel to my face, one big deep breath and falling back gracefully into the depths of the unknown. Even if this is the most practical way to enter from the boat, there's always that startled feeling before making your way to the surface and composing yourself. This startled feeling was worsened by the sighting of something large swimming along the seabed.
This was not a turtle shape, so my mind races from the worst possible animal to the worst possible outcome. One big deep breath at the surface later, I look down again to see that - to my relief - that it was just a giant fish.
Now fully composed I go off on my own to explore every crevasse of the underwater coral garden, hoping that it's only a matter of time before I see my very first fully-grown Sea Turtle in Australia. However, I'm stopped by another ominous shape looming deep and rummaging along the seabed. I remember it turning his head in my direction, trying to get a good look at the foreign creature that's just disturbed its peace. Then coming closer to me. My first thought, this is very unusual for a big fish. The closer it came, the more unusual it was to me. This 'fish', however, had a widening mouth with tiny feelers, and on its back, a daunting fin followed closely by a long, slender tail. This was a shark. We were explicitly told that this was the place for Sea Turtles, and here was the reason why no one saw any that afternoon.
I will never forget seeing the shark approaching with an ever-hungry look in his eyes. His feelers on his lips dancing, presumably with excitement for the first meal of the day. I didn't know what to do, I tried to turn away, but I was frozen with fear. He went towards my left leg and all I could manage was a slight kick which must have startled him. Fortunately for me, his curiosity outweighed his hunger, and with two whips of his tail, he was gone in an instant towards Natasha's direction. I shouted over to her to ask if she could see a passing shark, and, funnily enough, she chose to look for the location of the boat as opposed to any predators of the sea. I raced her to the boat whilst appreciating that all four limbs were still attached.
Then in the exact moment of complete safety, I was hit by this rush of adrenaline equal to the bungy jumping in New Zealand. An incredible, unique and abnormal experience to end our Whitsunday adventure.
Fortunately, we had just enough time for one last sunset.
CAIRNS
White Water Shafting
White Water Shafting
If you have read the New Zealand part of my travelling, you would understand my need for adrenaline.
Following the terrified, gut-wrenching feeling from snorkelling, I was hoping that White Water Rafting on the Tulley River would be another one to add to the collection. We were told it would be force 4 rapids today, so I had every reason to be excited.
Apparently, not everyone got the memo, caking on the makeup in our early-hour bus journey to the start of the Tulley River. It was here we were fully briefed on the difficulty of the task ahead, to the dismay of the Geisha girls as they smeared lipstick across their face. To put it plainly, today was going to be a lot more difficult than originally expected, so the option was there for all of us to 'call it a day'.
I just remember at this point thinking that every day back home I pass a river by, always too busy to wade in, but not today. Today I make the time; my life is my own after all. I wasn't born to stand on the banks, watching everyone else have all the fun. I was born to participate, to be a part of all things new and exciting, not apart from it.
There was a strange feeling of both nervousness and tranquillity as we step off the bus and suit up. The sky had vanished almost completely, only a few fragments of blue remain in the ceiling of the rainforest. I inhale the forest air, rich with the fragrance of leaves and damp. As I enter the daylight of the rivers clearing Australia's powerful sun rays strike me, but despite this, the pleasant coolness of the forest breeze stabilises my temperature. The sound of running river water has a relaxing, hypnotic quality as we move towards the raft. I want to stop and appreciate this for a little bit longer. I just want time to stand still, but this is where the challenge would begin.
Standing on the bank looking down, the river lay like a sleeping cobra. Boldly flowing amid the green of the forest in smooth, seductive curves, but with an unforgiving nature if disturbed. We board the raft in an orderly fashion. We are quickly briefed on the importance of communication and the necessary strokes and manoeuvres to take us to our much-desired destination down the river. We push ourselves away from the bank and set off.
This was freedom. Rowing down the river with no cares in the world and no more direction than a message in a bottle. We effortlessly meander our way around corners and past oncoming rocks with ease. However, it was not long before our confidence was met with humility giving the unforgiving sight in front of us. The message in the bottle should have only read one thing at this point: "HELP!"
Here we were, about to feel the full 4 forces. We were at the mercy of the rapids, helplessly bobbing towards them, there was no turning back now!
The raft moved rapidly down the white water in a chaotic path, hurtling between rocks and spinning them to face any direction. The water spray was constant, reducing vision to just a few feet. The roar of the water made communication almost impossible. All we could do was ride it out and pray to get to the next stage in one piece.
It was as if we boarded a pendulum-like roller coaster with more twists and turns than an episode of Hollyoaks. We would get through a daunting patch by the skin of our teeth, then suddenly be met by the tranquil forest atmosphere again. It was almost cruel in a way, just as we would think we were safe we would then suddenly be plunged into whirlpools, slammed against rocks and holding on for dear life down the rapids. It was a miracle that we never capsized, to be honest!
We were told that we made it past the worst, so now was time to enjoy the ambience of the forest while drifting effortlessly again. It was here we were advised of the calming effects of the forest and the mental benefits of being in such a serene environment with no signal. I would live here if I had the choice, to be home to somewhere so rejuvenating with the option of adrenaline at your doorstep.
Finally, we made it to the end. Battered and bruised but still in one piece. It was getting a little warm, so we thought we sign off with a capsize! Brilliant!
CAPE TRIBULATION
Cape Tribulation is famous for its magnificent beaches, waterfalls, wildlife, sweeping landscapes, unsealed roads and magical rainforests.
Cape Tribulation - located in north Queensland's Daintree National Park - is where the rainforest meets the Great Barrier Reef. This was special for more than one reason, as nowhere else in the world can you find two World Heritage Listed areas laying side by side! Compared to other visitor hot spots in Queensland, Cape Tribulation is a place where you can experience the oldest rainforest in the world and explore the Great Barrier Reef all in one peaceful location away from the tourist track.
Cape Tribulation is accessible through the north of Cairns, and the sealed road along the coast offers stunning scenery while driving there. The area was named by the British Navigator Lt. James Cook on 10 June 1770 after his ship hit a reef as it passed over it. This caused James Cook to shy away from the coast, moving into deeper water. From here his ship, the HMS Endeavour, hit another reef almost sinking on what is now called the Endeavour Reef. It's through these trials that Cook named the area Cape Tribulation as it was where he says "began all our troubles". It's also probably worth adding that from here you can see the island that the legend Steve Irwin died on :(
Unbottle your wildest fantasies
There were so many memories to treasure here; walking along Daintree beach aside the forest, seeing a wild crocodile hunting in swampy waters and licking a green ant's backside to find that it tastes of lemon (it's genuinely a thing). One of my favourite memories, however, was visiting Millaa Millaa Falls (The Herbal Essences waterfall).
There is a power and a brilliance in the tranquillity of a waterfall, a place of stillness even in the roar of the water. A force of nature, both beautiful and brutal. Tranquil from a distance but deafening up close. The water tumbled over the hillside in a series of mini-waterfalls. I could watch this streaming water even in my sleep, a beautiful infinite dream. So inviting, like a mosquito to bright light, we were drawn towards with no questions asked. Soon, we would be as refreshed as the ladies in the Herbal Essences advert.
We plunged ourselves into the water. Hair clung to our heads and around our faces, but no matter how wet we became, it could not dampen our spirits. In freshwater like this, Australia's tropic temperature drops dramatically. It is not like a winter chill, bringing a shiver to the skin, but more like the welcome coolness of an autumn breeze. I can never get enough of the calming effects of these pure waters.
Feeling fully rejuvenated it was time to finish off our Cape Tribulation experience in style and get into the character of the ladies in the Herbal Essences advert. Without further ado, the best hair flicks imaginable and, undoubtedly, our next profile pictures …
Summary
Overcoming The Land Down Under
We had done it! 3 months of travelling on the other side of the world and still in one piece! Australia was amazing, a little bit touristy for us, but we had some more incredible memories to add to the mental scrapbook.
It was at this point we were due to go home, but we couldn't leave it here, surely? After all these incredible memories and all this money leftover? What better way to spend it?
So we planned to go home slowly .. and I mean really slowly. The initial plan was Bali, Indonesia, Borneo, Singapore. But then the volcano eruption in Bali meant we had to go off course .. probably a good thing too. We knew we were getting too carried away.
One call to our travel agents - STA - and we were off to Thailand, to continue our once in a lifetime travelling adventure.
For all my Youtube videos from Australia, please click here.
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